What is your finesse casting rod?

[Houndfish]

Yea, I plan on working with it a lot once I get time to hit the water. Trying to cast around the yard is just going to frustrate me more. My state does a lot of trout stocking in the spring so I will have a lot of targets.

I do need to find a cheaper line to use for a while, even a cheaper floro like the 6lb PLine I have been using is too expensive for how much I waste and how often I backlash. Would backing with like a cheap 15lb braid and then running maybe 60' of fluoro be a reasonable idea? Right now I am only getting ~2-3oz lures about 40ish feet out, so 60' of line should be a good start. I could also tape the spool right past the knot and carry a filler spool of floro with me to respool as I loose it.

[LowRange]

Yeah, sounds like there may be something wrong with the DIY spool. The air brake mechanism may have become unglued from the inductor or the spool may have been made wrong. My Steez/TD-Z 103 DIY was screwed up in that the inductor was too far away from the magnets and wouldn't brake unless I had the dial on 8 or 9. A pixy with a DIY should be able to cast 1/16 led head thumb free on the middle of the mag dial and then turn around and skip with minimal thumb at max on the mag dial.

Another problem could the the bait itself. While I can eaisly throw a 1/16 lead head no problem I have 1/16 Rebel Mico Critter Hopper that is nearly impossible to cast. Hardbaits have very poor aerodynamic properties when compared to jig heads and are much more difficult to cast.

[LowRange]

Yea, I plan on working with it a lot once I get time to hit the water. Trying to cast around the yard is just going to frustrate me more. My state does a lot of trout stocking in the spring so I will have a lot of targets.

I do need to find a cheaper line to use for a while, even a cheaper floro like the 6lb PLine I have been using is too expensive for how much I waste and how often I backlash. Would backing with like a cheap 15lb braid and then running maybe 60' of fluoro be a reasonable idea? Right now I am only getting ~2-3oz lures about 40ish feet out, so 60' of line should be a good start. I could also tape the spool right past the knot and carry a filler spool of floro with me to respool as I loose it.

I'd recommend 4-6 XL to get the spool dialed in. It's cheap, easy handling line. I find fluorocarbon line difficult to work with and prefer not to use it. The reduced visibility due to refractive index is complete nonsense being pushed by manufactures to sell more line while playing off the ignorance of the consumer. If you understand refraction, apply it to an an object underwater and scrutinize it visually then only context that makes any sense is trying to use fluorocarbon as an underwater lens to view an object. When looking though the fluorocarbon lens there should be less optical distortion than looking through some other other plastic lens of differing chemistry and different refractive index. To apply this to fishing lines and to make the claim that fluorocarbon lines have reduced visibility because of refractive index is the same as stating that the line is less visible because when fish look through the line and view their underwater world there is less distortion in the image viewed through the fluorocarbon when compared to the image viewed through the non fluorocarbon line so fish are less likely to notice that the fluorocarbon line is present. Here is why this is nonsense and does not apply to fishing lines:

Fishing line, in the diameters used in bass fishing, is too small to be used as a lens to view an object. The bass would have to be using microscopes.

Fishing line isn't clear but translucent. You can't see through something that is translucent.

Fishing line is a cylinder. Cylinders have enormous optical distortion and are terrible lenses.

The difference between the refractive index of fluorocarbon and and other polymers is so small that it's only a few percent above statistical equality.

Even if the fish took line, smashed it flat in a slide slide, applied a chemical to make it clear, inserted it into microscopes and scrutinized it, they wouldn't be able to tell the difference. They would not observe any differences between slide A of fluorocarbon and slide B of monofilament.

Braid will also work as BFS line. I'll often use a high vis braid and a few feet, not 60, of some thigh clarity translucent, hardened non-braid as leader. I'll often use Sunline Sniper #8 or Big Game #8 as a leader. Flurocarbon also has manageability issues and will jump off the reel's spool while it still retains the memory of the larger filler spool so I would wait a bit to allow it to take the memory of the spool before test casting it in the yard. Once it takes the memory of the reel's spool it can be beneficial in that I can skip with it and any loose coils of line have a tenancy to play nice together and not get tangled up like a braid will. There are advantages to the stuff but reduced visibility because refractive index, is not one.

TLDR: fluoro is not invisible underwater and I it for skipping

[Derek777]

Tulala X Dranckrazy Indie 610

[Houndfish]

I'd recommend 4-6 XL............
TLDR: fluoro is not invisible underwater and I it for skipping

Interesting. I have never actually used mono line.

I moved towards floro for slack line sensitivity as I fish a lot of weightless soft plastics in general. I will pick up a spool of XL though and give it a try.

[LowRange]

I'd recommend 4-6 XL............
TLDR: fluoro is not invisible underwater and I it for skipping

Interesting. I have never actually used mono line.

I moved towards floro for slack line sensitivity as I fish a lot of weightless soft plastics in general. I will pick up a spool of XL though and give it a try.

XL is cheap and handles well. It's a good line to learn on because it isn't doing anything make things more difficult and is very cheap so you can blow up multiple spools full of line learning. I don't like it as a BFS fishing line, because I prefer braid, but it is a good troubleshooting aid. By all means use you preferred fluoro but I'd recommend getting that spool dialed in or troubleshoot it, if it does indeed have a problem, with something easy handling and predictable. For me that line is #4 XL.

[Bass Shores 52]

Megabass Destroyer Hedgehog F3st-63X with Yellow Daiwa Pixzilla

Majorcraft MS-X MXC-69M/BF with Daiwa Steez with SV 105 spool

[Houndfish]

While I am still going to keep working with my UL trout rod, I do think I want a L weight rod for my main BFS stuff. I am thinking I will mostly throw Ned Rigs (3/16oz), small shakyheads (1/4oz), and cranks/spinners in the same weight range.

I want a short rod in the 6'-6'3" range. I am looking hard at the Loomis CR721 IMX. I just got a CR723 IMX and love the way it fishes and handles. I have been looking at the assorted JDM rods but it seems like prices are going up a bit and nothing in my price range (that is easily available) is immediately jumping out at me.

Would love to hear thoughts on this rod from anyone who has fished it, specifically how it casts at the lower end of it's rating and if it can handle lures below it.

[LowRange]

While I am still going to keep working with my UL trout rod, I do think I want a L weight rod for my main BFS stuff. I am thinking I will mostly throw Ned Rigs (3/16oz), small shakyheads (1/4oz), and cranks/spinners in the same weight range.

I want a short rod in the 6'-6'3" range. I am looking hard at the Loomis CR721 IMX. I just got a CR723 IMX and love the way it fishes and handles. I have been looking at the assorted JDM rods but it seems like prices are going up a bit and nothing in my price range (that is easily available) is immediately jumping out at me.

Would love to hear thoughts on this rod from anyone who has fished it, specifically how it casts at the lower end of it's rating and if it can handle lures below it.

A light powered rod BFS rod will work well for the baits you intend to throw. I use a Volkey VKC-68L for those same baits.
There's a 2 piece Majorcraft Cozza 6'7'' L for sale in like new condition in the classified $100 TYD PayPal. "jtgibso1" is the seller. You'll have to PM him to inquire about rod do to your inability to view the Classified section.

[spencerinstl]

My finesse casting rods have changed since my first post to this thread in 2014. Here are my current casting finesse rods are:
Daiwa Presso AGS 60L-B, Daiwa Orange Pixy Rod 631 MLRB 6’3” ML, Megabass X7 F2-63 Super Cliffhanger, Megabass F3-69X7 Super Eiger, Megabass F1-63PB PopX Stick, and Megabass F3.5-70X4 Super Mirage.

[southpaw619]

Whelp, the last STC-63UL is gone. They still have the STC-64L in stock.

I grabbed it, can't wait to try a solid tip! I fish exclusively small plastics in the 1-4.5 gram range and always feel a disconnect with tube rods.

Please report back once you have some time with it.

I've only fished it once and skunked so I can't speak on fighting/landing fish yet. It is much more sensitive than my tubular tip trout rods. It is stiffer than I expected but it's not necessarily a bad thing although it does make backhand flipping in tight spaces a little more difficult than I like when throwing sub 2.5 grams. For regular casting it casts as easily as the Teton UL down to about 2 grams. It throws lower weights than 2 grams mostly backlash free and for respectable distance but not as easily in comparison to Teton. I threw a 1.2g jig 17 yards and a .8g bare jighead 14 yards. Overall I really like the rod so far and am looking forward to seeing how it handles fish very soon. It's pretty amazing a rod with such power can casts light lures as well as it does!

Thank you LowRange for your insight and recommendation of the rod.

[cocolee]

NRX 852 + ....... with Daiwa Steez SV

perfect.

[Hennessy]

Nrx 852c with 6lb test on '15 aldebaran 50hg is about the lowest I go

[LowRange]

Whelp, the last STC-63UL is gone. They still have the STC-64L in stock.

I grabbed it, can't wait to try a solid tip! I fish exclusively small plastics in the 1-4.5 gram range and always feel a disconnect with tube rods.

Please report back once you have some time with it.

I've only fished it once and skunked so I can't speak on fighting/landing fish yet. It is much more sensitive than my tubular tip trout rods. It is stiffer than I expected but it's not necessarily a bad thing although it does make backhand flipping in tight spaces a little more difficult than I like when throwing sub 2.5 grams. For regular casting it casts as easily as the Teton UL down to about 2 grams. It throws lower weights than 2 grams mostly backlash free and for respectable distance but not as easily in comparison to Teton. I threw a 1.2g jig 17 yards and a .8g bare jighead 14 yards. Overall I really like the rod so far and am looking forward to seeing how it handles fish very soon. It's pretty amazing a rod with such power can casts light lures as well as it does!

Thank you LowRange for your insight and recommendation of the rod.

I love mine. It's a BFS rod and as such has an emphasis on power yet being an UL has a very sift tip. I'm curious about how it performs targeting tout. Judging by how spindly and whippy trout rods are I wonder if the Trickster UL has too much backbone. I use mine to target bass and other sunfish throwing fun UL baits for my own amusement.

[uljersey]

Judging by how spindly and whippy trout rods are I wonder if the Trickster UL has too much backbone. I use mine to target bass and other sunfish throwing fun UL baits for my own amusement.

If only the Fenwick Elite Tech River Runner had a casting model .... oh the possibilities. The UL spinning version is a joy to fish with. Fast action with plenty of backbone, but still a true UL stick in every sense. There is absolutely no noodle in this rod at all. It was developed as a trout rod, but it's capable of so much more. It would make a fantastic finesse caster.