This.....you cannot generate power without speed and speed without power. This is the formula .... Force=mass x acceleration. If you generate speed you can also generate force.dragon1 wrote:Yep....length of line out, type of line, size of hook, water temp (ie, aggressively biting/swallowing fish vs light pick up). I always trim back the weedguard and spread it out in a "V" pattern every time before using. Braid works better for long hooksets (like when you are casting more so than pitching), however certain fluoros transmit much better on a slack line short to med ranges.facelessnewsouth wrote:One hand on the reel handle, one hand on the rod for me.suprteck wrote:thanks for the tips!
wondering if you guys set the hook with one arm or two on the rod?
FWIW, I sweep with lighter powered rods and light finesse type hooks on any type jig/tube/plastic...and on others, I am able to set plenty hard and effectively with a short "wrist torque" + arm lift while using my hips for additional torquing, usually to the side and upwards, but it really depends on where my rod angle is at when the fish hits. Trust me when I say that I have snapped off 20lb test leaders on short - med line lengths setting hook this way because of the "snap" of the technique (kinda like a small circle upper cut with a rod/reel if you will ).
I have never personally understood why some of these vids show guys literally jumping out of their shoes to set a jig fish? But to each their own as it makes for good TV.
^Agreed, good advice there. I've noticed better landing ratio after tuning some of the weed guards on certain jigs. Specifically, I spread the fibers out to surround the hook-point, if they're bunched together in front of the hook. It still gives good weed-protection (in-fact improves it in some circumstances) and definitely makes it easier to expose the hook on a bite.Jayce wrote:Check the weed guard on your jig. Sometimes some jigs have stiffer, longer or more extra fibers on them during production. Try to tune the weed guard on your jigs and try it again if it helps.
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Good topics are this way . . . they endure.
I'd add two observations.
One is just general to any presentation that if the line movement itself gives you any clue to the direction a fish is moving off once he has your bait in his mouth, you should adjust your hook set accordingly. Knowing the direction a fish's head is oriented is a big deal. So for an angler at the center of a circle or (0,0) on an x-y chart, if a fish swims off in the 2:00 direction, that is, away from you and off to your right, it tells you where its head is and that the line is likely taut against the right edge of its mouth. You'd want to make your hook set motion to the left which would be a more acute angle. A hook set to the right side would be a bit more likely to pull the lure from its mouth than to hang up in it.
I know that in so many cases, so many fishing presentations, this line direction "read" doesn't happen, but when it does, knowing where its head is and the direction it is swimming can help you lodge the hook with a bit higher hook up ratio.
The second is the big shift in our sport to fast and extra fast tip rods. I'd also likely add in my comments that most people seem to fish with rods that are powered up about a notch too high. So, they use an MH when an M would work better. But, anyway, with a fast tip, if you do successfully set the hook, the rod can straighten itself out quicker and when a fish jumps he can shake the lure loose on newly-found slack. In contrast, if you use a more parabolic rod, a more moderate tip that bends down closer to the hands, the fuller bend in the rod will keep a more consistent pressure on the fish when it jumps, if it runs toward you. A fish is much less likely able to maneuver to create slack.
And, you simply have more leverage (less bad leverage actually) over a fish with a rod where the bend effectively shortens the lever (the lifting point is closer to your hand (fulcrum). I know about 2/3s of the fishing world thinks you have more power over a fish with a heavy action rod, extra fast tip and 8 feet in length. You don't. Let's go lift a 10 lbs. bag of sand off the garage floor with that set-up, then try it with 6' 6" medium power, more parabolic bending rod.
Anyway, a few extra thoughts on hook-ups, keeping them hooked up.