Fuji Skeleton Reel Seat

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speckdog
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Re: Fuji Skeleton Reel Seat

Post by speckdog » Sat Aug 20, 2016 2:44 pm

Thanks for the reply back, you have 3 threads with your reel attached on your picture. With my reel attached i have 4 threads showing. With that many threads showing my fingers barely touch the exposed blank, which is one of the reasons to get that SK2 reel seat IMO.

Tim Kelly
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Re: Fuji Skeleton Reel Seat

Post by Tim Kelly » Sat Aug 20, 2016 3:46 pm

I find those SK2 seats to be the stupidest design out there. Somehow they're never really comfortable to hold, they look odd as there is always the thread issue to some extent and the rod can flex between the two parts of the seat which makes a casting reel feel unstable. They're also more prone to coming unglued as the gluing area is so much smaller. All round fail in my experience!

speckdog
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Re: Fuji Skeleton Reel Seat

Post by speckdog » Sat Aug 20, 2016 3:52 pm

Yea i should have went with the standard fuji reel seat it seems. thanks for all the replies

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Mattman
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Re: Fuji Skeleton Reel Seat

Post by Mattman » Sat Aug 20, 2016 9:26 pm

speckdog wrote:Yea I did, what would you use to cut the threads off? thanks
I would use a Dremel and a cutoff wheel. If that's a little too sketchy for you, I'd use a fine tooth hobby saw like X-Acto makes.


speckdog wrote:With that many threads showing my fingers barely touch the exposed blank


The distance between the two seat sections is critical for comfort. I target no less than 1.35" between seat sections. Some sort of transition between the seat and the blank is also very important. That could be a Fuji plastic WCS check or a Matagi D16FR or an epoxy ramp.


speckdog wrote:Yea i should have went with the standard fuji reel seat it seems. thanks for all the replies
I'd cut that threaded barrel back a bit and then do thread ramps at each end of the seat to create a smoother effect. If you found that didn't quite help you enough, I'd wrap the blank with a few layers of thread to build out its diameter and see how it felt then.

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IlliniDawg01
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Re: Fuji Skeleton Reel Seat

Post by IlliniDawg01 » Sun Aug 21, 2016 12:09 am

Yeah, the spacing between is critical. The nice thing about building the rod yourself is that you can do some tape wraps like you said and put everything in place and get it just the way you like it to fit how you hold the reel with your own reel. When someone else builds for you they just have to guess. The one piece seats fix that problem. Then you just have to get the proper grip length.

Is it possible to get the epoxy hot enough to allow him to slide the thread section forward a bit without damaging the blank? Probably not now that the epoxy has fully cured.

DaveJ

speckdog
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Re: Fuji Skeleton Reel Seat

Post by speckdog » Sun Aug 21, 2016 12:50 am

Thanks for all the help.

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Mattman
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Re: Fuji Skeleton Reel Seat

Post by Mattman » Sun Aug 21, 2016 1:12 am

IlliniDawg01 wrote:
Is it possible to get the epoxy hot enough to allow him to slide the thread section forward a bit without damaging the blank? Probably not now that the epoxy has fully cured.
Possible?...Yes. Likely?...No.

On the repair work I've done, I've not had good success removing seat components without damage that I find unappealing. Functional, but not appealing. At least on good builds. I have had some low end big box store stuff that I worked on that came apart easily. But, when a rod is assembled well, its tough to get apart without damaging components.

speckdog
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Re: Fuji Skeleton Reel Seat

Post by speckdog » Sun Aug 21, 2016 6:30 am

Matt please Pm me when you get a chance, I have tried but I don't think my pm is going through.
thanks
Glenn

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