After cutting the “trigger” end from the reel seat, I use a sanding disc and burr tools w electric drill motor (clamped in vise) to do the sculpting and sanding. I shorten the mortised end, hog out the cavity, remove material from the outside contours and thin the trigger blade. I know a picture is worth a thousand words, but I have no idea how to post pics on this site. If you’ll send me a PM and include your email address, I’ll send you pics. Or, maybe you can tell me how to post pics here.
Guides doesn't save weight so much, when you use less than 6 sized guides. Here's my own NFC MB 705 HM's guides. American Tackle size 3# micros as runners.
Wraps + coating doesnt affect much either. All wraps w/o decoration wraps + epoxy adds only 1-2g, depending how much you use epoxy.
Handles and reelseat makes most weight after blank itself.
Heres weighted gripmaterials. EVA has little bigger id hole, so it isnt 100% proof, but carbon grip is so light. Composite cork then weights 4x more than normal cork.
This rod weights 104g, cause i want use Alps Textouch/MVT/AGC reelseat, because its BEST! MVT weights 29g w nut+screws.
Seats, handles and grips. A split ECSM seat is still the lightest casting setup out there.
the advice on the lightest reel is also solid. It is much easier to loose weight cost effectively in a blank by pairing with a good lightweight reel
But in my opinion the balance is much more important than the total weight and therefore I prefer a fullgrip with duplon.
However, i dont think anyone will argue that you should build as light as you can then it wont take as much weight to "balance"
Balance point is so near reel, that anyone could handle that couple grams. "tipweight" doesnt matter.
Go to gym, if you cannot hold less than 300g set couple hours.