TackleTour

I am going to build a new casting rod and I want to see just how light I can get. I am planning to use it for light bottom contact baits particularly shakey heads. I am planning on the Phenix K2 683 or 684 blank, which are both between 1.2 and 1.3 ounces. I am planning on TiSic micros probably in 5s and 4s. Simple EVA split grip turned down a bit with minimal trim and likely an SK2 seat.

Any conflicting ideas? Where else can I shave some weight?

Torzites

1-part urethane finish like Permagloss.

Ream the EVA to a close fit before gluing.

Definitely cut down the threads the same size as the hood to save some weight

And make the wraps as short as possible. Don't know if you can keep it under 2 oz with that sk or not but you have a good chance. Good luck

I simply LOVE my K-2's!!!!

Definitely my favorite blanks also

All of the above, plus…
I remove all the finish from my blanks. In some cases, I’ve removed up to .19 oz. Keep in mind, it may void warranty. I’d also use smaller guides (3.5s). I’ve found that EVA is usually heavier than cork. A sculpted skeletonized split reel seat is lighter than the SK2. I use the trigger portion of a Castaway reel seat (Fuji ECSM also works) with a shortened Fuji threaded barrel w/ std hood and lock nut. I save a little over 1/8 oz. compared to the SK2 assembly.

Of course weight savings toward the rod butt doesn’t enhance performance as much as weight saved toward the tip, but overall rod weight savings will increase efficiency (stiffness or power/weight) and sensitivity.

To take full advantage of your efforts, you’ll need to pair it with a light-weight reel. All of my rods weigh well less than 3 oz. and I use Aldebaran reels (4.7 oz.) for all my bass fishing.

Forgot to mention…..the lightest butt cap I’ve found is the Batson EVABC20. I shorten it and sand down the outside contour to save further weight.

I agree, I also love my aldebaran 51

jim spooner wrote:All of the above, plus…
I remove all the finish from my blanks. In some cases, I’ve removed up to .19 oz. Keep in mind, it may void warranty. I’d also use smaller guides (3.5s). I’ve found that EVA is usually heavier than cork. A sculpted skeletonized split reel seat is lighter than the SK2. I use the trigger portion of a Castaway reel seat (Fuji ECSM also works) with a shortened Fuji threaded barrel w/ std hood and lock nut. I save a little over 1/8 oz. compared to the SK2 assembly.

Of course weight savings toward the rod butt doesn’t enhance performance as much as weight saved toward the tip, but overall rod weight savings will increase efficiency (stiffness or power/weight) and sensitivity.

To take full advantage of your efforts, you’ll need to pair it with a light-weight reel. All of my rods weigh well less than 3 oz. and I use Aldebaran reels (4.7 oz.) for all my bass fishing.

Forgot to mention…..the lightest butt cap I’ve found is the Batson EVABC20. I shorten it and sand down the outside contour to save further weight.

Great advice everyone! Thank you!

I am intrigued by the recommendations on the reel seats, I will have to do some tinkering!

Building a k2 763 now will let you know weight when done

My k2 ended up at 2.1 ounces

cuke wrote:My k2 ended up at 2.1 ounces

That's light. How do you like the balance and what were the components?

Balance is good an inch and a half from the front of the hood with an aldebaran 51. I try to keep it simple and used fuji torzites spiral wrapped, 8 pieces of cork and a ground down fuji ecsm and hood.

Cuke, you mind posting some pics? 2.1oz is really impressive. Few can say the have a rod light that.