How difficult is it to replace the cork foregrip

[mike_honcho]

I would like replace the foregrip on my crucial and correct me if im wrong but the reel seat and butt would have to be removed to do this. I know it would void the warrenty but it doesnt matter its not to pricey of a rod. I just dont like the foregrip of the rod. I might as well add burl cork to the foregrip and grip/ butt. Would this venture be cost more than the rod is worth?

[lpquick]

Replacing the grip is not cost effective on a kick around rod, I wouldn't take the time or spend the money unless it was a rod to die for that I couldn't live without but hated the grip. You might consider saving the money and putting it towards a rod you really want. IMHO of course.

[vArm]

Just an inquiry. Why do you want to change the fore grip?
I removed the fore grips of all my GLX rods and couldn't me happier, they balance better, have better sensitivity they are very easy to remove/modify with no building experience required, it doesn't void the warranty of most rod companies and you don't have to remove the reel seat or handle to modify it.
As long as I've been using casting gear for fresh water Bass fishing I've never seen a benefit/need for a fore grip.

[cjtoad]

Depending on the epoxy used it can be incrediblly hard to remove the reel seat. I've never had one come off without trashing the reel seat.

[jimmyb]

actually you can replace the cork fairly easy...

you will have remove the current foregrip and get it reasonably cleaned to the blank (with out damaging the blank)

You will then have to ream 4-6 cork rings (depending on how long of a foregrip you want) to the size of the blank. You then spilt the cork rings (they are easiest split thru a natural imperfection or void in the ring) and "clamshell" the split cork rings onto the blank and rodbond into place. The rings have to be clamped together and then tape has to be put on the circumference of the cork rings (i like using a stretchy electrical tape that i can wrap tight) to keep the rings closed.

Once cured, the handle is shaped with a rasp/file and then sanded. Old school builders shape most of their handles this way...

I have done this for a few foregrips and handle repairs over the years. You can still see a small witness lines from glue, but it is much easier than trying to remove a handle or ripping off guides!

[Mattman]

You can do as jimmyb says.

I know a number of guys that would not accept the glue lines. So it really becomes a personal thing.

I'll also ask the "why?" question.

If you don't want the fore grip, you can remove it and cover up the scars on the blank with thread and finish. Or even paint.

If you want a different fore grip, why not just look at reshaping what is there?

If I were to "do it right", I'd remove the guides and drop a new fore grip down from the tip. The ID then matches the blank OD. You don't have to fir out your blank to match the blank butt diameter. You can't install an ECS seat from the rear.

Personally, I think there are better places to spend your money. So, doing it yourself is probably a better option. Either reshape what you've got, or make a new fore and split it down the length as jimmyb outlines.

[mike_honcho]

The reason I want to change the foregrip is purely aesthetic and just want a better look. I already have some cork rings from a previous project. I dont think the glue lines will bother me much I'll just turn it so I can't see it from the top. I really appreciate everyones advice.