TackleTour

I use #6 stripper guide at 0, then 4.5 micros rotating at 60, 120, and 180 all the way to the tip. Static test is needed to place your butt guides so your line stays off the rod. I find that usually more guides are needed than your standard (length +1) to keep the angles lower near the tip where your rod bend is greater. Just finished a 7 footer with 10 guides + tip, cast like a dream...

I'm really leaning towards a spiral wrap on this rod. Not b/c I want to (would be my first) but all points lead to needing it on such a light tipped ...

How long is your rod, power and action? I never start a build without a reel. Being that no two blanks work the same you need to do a static pressure test to define where the guides should be placed. Old rule, but a great staring point. For every foot of rod you need a guide plus one more. Depending on the reel would determine your stripper guide size, also the tip top diameter predetermines tip top ring size. I have been building custom rods sense 1977. I like the Acid Wrap in off shore salt rods and my River Salmon/Ironhead rods (saves the hands and Wrests) I use the smallest guides I can to do the job. I start out a 0% going forward then 15% - 30%- 90% Then 180. This is my starting point . After a stress test I well most likely change my setting. That said more info is needed. I can be reached at balcomberods@aol.com. I live in Washington State

First, let me preface this post by saying that I realize this may not be ideal, or even a good idea, I just want to know if it will work well enough to try the idea out. OK. So, I have a relatively inexpensive 2 piece casting rod that I would like to try an acid wrap on. What I was thinking was to strip the second and third guides (away from the reel) off, reorient the tip-half of the rod 180*, then re-wrap the second and third guides to transition the line from the top of the rod to the bottom. How much of an effect will the rotation of the tip-half of the rod have on it's action (assuming the spine was correctly oriented)? It's a MH - medium action rod so it bends a good ways down the blank as it is. I don't know that I would be able to tell a difference in that respect (maybe if I would do more fishing and less tinkering...) Aside from being careful and not damaging the blank while I'm removing the guides, is there anything I should watch out for? I should be able to get the line onto the underside of the rod with just those two transition guides, right? Should I keep the two transition guides lined up so the point straight down the length of the rod or should I angle them to mimic the angle of the line as it crosses onto the underside of the rod? Spacing for those two guides should remain the same, correct? Thanks in advance and for having a little patience for my potentially foolish endeavor

All this info is very good!! You can also check out one of our forums that have spiral wrap blueprints for our rods, but can definitely transition over to your rod. www.guidespacing.com

Good info here, the type of spiral used is a personal thing, truth is you could make a full 1 1/2 turn spiral (540°) and it wouldn't make a difference in performance.

I don’t like the sharp transitions of the simple spiral.