BFS Line Conundrum
Posted: Thu Nov 29, 2018 1:27 pm
Alright, TT has done it again. I have an Alphas Air Stream Custom sitting in customs and a Tenryu Rayz 53UL-BC waiting to be shipped. The rod is rated for 1-6g (~1/32-7/32) and 1-4#. The reel has the shallowest, smallest diameter spool I know of and has a fixed inductor. The combo should be very nearly the most finesse BFS setup currently available.
The only thing I don't know what to do about is the line. As you TTers know, Daiwa prohibits the use of braid on their honeycomb bfs type spools, presumably because the lack of stretch can damage the spool on a backlash or hookset. I'm guessing that also rules out the use of Ester line. Also, in this case they discourage the use of lines lighter than 6#, presumably because the tension created by stretch becomes too high for the spool to handle when spooling on more than 40 meters.
So since the rod is rated 1-4#, what you guys recommend? If I could use any line I would go with either 4# Invizx, 8-10# J-Braid, or 2.1# Varivas Ester (which I'm also waiting on and have never tried before.) I've gotten some feedback on this, with other users saying braid won't actually present a problem when used with the drag settings and lure weights the setup is designed for. I haven't heard anything about going lighter than 6#, but I'm thinking since fluoro is supposedly less stretchy than equivalent mono (I'm not sure this is really the case with Invizx) that I should be able to to go a little lighter than 6#. Or I guess I could measure out 40m of 4# instead of filling the spool. I like using braid for stuff like this, and the rod does have braid-friendly Ti/SiC K frames, but aside from the fact that they say not to use it, I don't like the idea of all the crap it can carry back to that perforated spool. I've heard I can line the arbor with thread tape to both get out of using mono backing and prevent the intrusion of contaminants. Should it break up, though, it seems like it might get into the reel and be just as bad as pond scum.
That leaves the Ester, which Daiwa doesn't mention. I don't know if that's because it's okay to use or because no one besides some ignorant Okie would ever use it with that reel. At 2.1#, it sits at the magic middle of the rod's line rating that I usually shoot for, it sinks, it's sensitive, and it's bright orange for line watching. Like braid, it'll offer enough capacity for a nice cushion should I hook into something big. It's intended to be used as Area line with a fluoro shock leader, which I would also use with braid. One downside is I think it may add more weight to the spool even than equivalent fluorocarbon, so that makes me think braid may be the way to go. Do you think the use of a leader would mitigate the lack of stretch inherent in these lines? Am I totally over thinking this? I try to take very good care of my equipment, I don't mess around with setting the drag too high or casting weights beyond a rod’s capability, I don't abuse the rod when fighting fish or to free a snag, so the spool is in good hands. I'm just trying to find the optimum setup without unforeseen consequences.
If you actually made it through all this, thanks. If you have any insight, double thanks.
The only thing I don't know what to do about is the line. As you TTers know, Daiwa prohibits the use of braid on their honeycomb bfs type spools, presumably because the lack of stretch can damage the spool on a backlash or hookset. I'm guessing that also rules out the use of Ester line. Also, in this case they discourage the use of lines lighter than 6#, presumably because the tension created by stretch becomes too high for the spool to handle when spooling on more than 40 meters.
So since the rod is rated 1-4#, what you guys recommend? If I could use any line I would go with either 4# Invizx, 8-10# J-Braid, or 2.1# Varivas Ester (which I'm also waiting on and have never tried before.) I've gotten some feedback on this, with other users saying braid won't actually present a problem when used with the drag settings and lure weights the setup is designed for. I haven't heard anything about going lighter than 6#, but I'm thinking since fluoro is supposedly less stretchy than equivalent mono (I'm not sure this is really the case with Invizx) that I should be able to to go a little lighter than 6#. Or I guess I could measure out 40m of 4# instead of filling the spool. I like using braid for stuff like this, and the rod does have braid-friendly Ti/SiC K frames, but aside from the fact that they say not to use it, I don't like the idea of all the crap it can carry back to that perforated spool. I've heard I can line the arbor with thread tape to both get out of using mono backing and prevent the intrusion of contaminants. Should it break up, though, it seems like it might get into the reel and be just as bad as pond scum.
That leaves the Ester, which Daiwa doesn't mention. I don't know if that's because it's okay to use or because no one besides some ignorant Okie would ever use it with that reel. At 2.1#, it sits at the magic middle of the rod's line rating that I usually shoot for, it sinks, it's sensitive, and it's bright orange for line watching. Like braid, it'll offer enough capacity for a nice cushion should I hook into something big. It's intended to be used as Area line with a fluoro shock leader, which I would also use with braid. One downside is I think it may add more weight to the spool even than equivalent fluorocarbon, so that makes me think braid may be the way to go. Do you think the use of a leader would mitigate the lack of stretch inherent in these lines? Am I totally over thinking this? I try to take very good care of my equipment, I don't mess around with setting the drag too high or casting weights beyond a rod’s capability, I don't abuse the rod when fighting fish or to free a snag, so the spool is in good hands. I'm just trying to find the optimum setup without unforeseen consequences.
If you actually made it through all this, thanks. If you have any insight, double thanks.