Daiwa Tournament SS700 upgrades/supertune

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Daiwa Tournament SS700 upgrades/supertune

Post by uljersey » Thu Oct 25, 2018 3:54 pm

This is a reprint of sorts of a tutorial posted back in 2009 on a fishing site known as "FishingKaki.com" ... I take NO credit whatsoever for any of the following content, it doesn't come up on search engines anymore but the pieces are scattered. The photos that were part of the original post are no longer part of the text, but could be found in Photobucket archives, therefore I had to cut-n-paste the original text and add the appropriate photos to recreate the original tutorial as best as possible. I did not edit this in any way. I don't necessarily agree with 100% of what he states but this is far and away the most comprehensive tutorial on this reel I've seen. Here goes ...

Daiwa SS 700 Modification and super tune

May 2009 edited December 2011 in Reels
Daiwa SS 700 Modification and super tune

Daiwa SS700 has attended cult status in fishing history worldwide. After comparing with several US $50-500 Shimano, Daiwa, and American reels of the same size, the Daiwa SS700 priced at ~US$90 is still a winner.

This reel has the ever green advantages which no one seek to surpass:
1. Long cast , smooth operation
2. Good looks, durable and can land any fish as good as any other reel
3. The Thailand made US model is superior than the Made in Japan model

This reel is very popular in Asia as a multipurpose reel. It is also a preferred reel for luring as it is light, tough and handles fish well.

However, it has its limitations and weaknesses. This article attempts to record the modifications that makes this reel more suitable for salt water fishing, smoother and yet stronger drag, and to address the errors in schematic.

Daiwa originally intended to sell this reel for carp fishing. This is a fresh water reel and will corrode beyond repair if used in salt water fishing.

Initial Assessments

The size is smaller than the SS1300 (8.5oz 165yrds/8lbs), and the weight is only at 7oz (110yrds/6lbs). Compared to my Shimano Stella 1000, this is only 0.4oz heavier. With lines loaded, the SS700 is still lighter and more field rugged than the Stella 1000. Line capacity is not an issue with the modern braided super lines.

I never will use a new reel without checking and re-lubrication.
http://www.fishingkaki.com/forum/viewto ... ight=daiwa

Although some claim this reel is difficult to modify, it is actually one of the easiest reel to upgrade and tune for most novice.

The line worm gear supported by a bush. If you hit a big fish, you will run into trouble. The line worm shaft will bent from the frame and cause jamming, and hence line break at times.

This is a brand new reel. However, the grease is already black and some assembly parts were wrong. There were too many shims on the main shaft. Thailand QC still sucks.

See how bad the lubrication has become. This reel has not touched water yet.

The lock catch shows how the one way bearing works in old school reels.
From experience, this is the BEST setup. Modern one way instant anti reverse very often CANNOT set hook properly resulting in lost fish. The one way bearing in the Daiwa KIX series setup is much weaker than this. Daiwa incorporates Dual bearing and cog anti reverse to please the customer and to set hook properly at high end surf reels.

Anyone who ask Daiwa to change this design to bearing type anti reverse does not understand how the anti reverse works. Daiwa will ignore you and ask you to buy this reel. From Trout to fierce Pike, this is the setup that works. But I will tell how you to make it work better.
Note: in original form, there is no oil or lubrication on the parts. This will result in failures.

** The copper shim is not shown in the schematic. Take note. You can use back at the same location as I did.

The failing lubrication must be removed.

The reel completely dismantled and accessed. You can see additional parts of Carbontex drag and new bearings. Carbon drag can be purchased from Smoooth drag but their service is very bad. You can buy Abu Garcia carbon drag and trim it for use, at only US$7.

Items to prepare

Daiwa ships the best reels to USA. Its true. The gears are better and so are the bearings. I would not spend money on the so called Made in Japan SS700. They are worse.

(Beware of 2nd hand reels. Especially those sellers that do not given money back, meet up for the deal and ask the girlfriend to pass to you. I heard too many stories.) I have seen many spent hundreds for the so called “made in Japan” reel and bought a reel that needs new parts instead. You have been warned.

Tools to prepare:

Parts/Items to prepare:

Hybrid ceramic bearing OD13 ID6 thickness 5
Hybrid ceramic bearing OD 14 ID7 thickness 3.5, you need 2
Steel bearing OD6, ID3 thickness 2.5 all units in mm.

(These bearings are readily available from many dealers worldwide. Don’t pester me to buy bearings for you and ship for you. I already gave you free information and free instructions. If you keep pestering me, I won’t bother answering you.)

Sand paper, grade 2000-3000, to be polished with running water.

PTFE grade grease. I always look for better products. Use what you like.
But I would use lighter lub for bearings and heavier lub for gears.

Acetone/Lighter fluid to clean parts

Look, Daiwa uses a stronger bearing support for the SS700 than SS1300. Why? I suppose there is more space to incorporate a bigger bearing. The right side uses a bigger sealed bearing than the SS1300. I would use the SS700 for big groupers if line capacitor is not an issue.

The shaft has no bearing supports. However, it is short, and strong , made of steel. The part can take a 30lbs fish easily.

Whether it was made in Japan or Thailand, the parts needs further surface finishing. Use a tooth paste to polish the shaft and brass gear. Do not use sand paper or abrasive materials! Its surface finishing, not
Material Removal!

Clean off all the low grade grease in the bearings. Use Acetone.


Before assembly, check all parts and schematic for fits. Re oil the bearings with PTFE lubricants for smoother and more durable operation.

Even hybrid ceramic bearings benefit from PTFE.

Gear/parts shown after cleaning with Acetone. I would not recycle the bearing if it is rough. It is a expendable part and I would change it regularly. That is why I recommend ceramic type which has longer service life.

Re oil the parts using PTFE.

How to assemble the line laying worm gears.

**** These are the two shims that are usually lost during servicing.

Most people sell their reels off as 2nd because the shims are lost, because the shims are difficult to replace/purchase. Daiwa support is, unfortunately, much worse than Shimano. I believe Daiwa wants you to buy new reels than new parts.

Assembly in place.

Using the new support bearing. Note that the small shim must be in place. The fork that is between the bearing and shaft should have the smoother surface facing the shaft and not the bearing. The shim should sit between the shaft and the fork. **** Otherwise, during a fierce fight you may have a broken line. I have seen it many times.

How to improve the anti reverse?

Simple, use oil or PTFE. The original reel critical parts do have no oil at all. They will fail. Never mind the poor sluggish response.

Some oil here will make the anti reverse work wonders.

Grease it up if you want to use the reel for sea trips.

Note the sequence before assembly.

Do not over tighten and use a GOOD screw driver please.

Touch up lubrication if required.

Daiwa usee glue to lock the brass gear and the nut. Just make sure you use PROPER tool and lock it tight. The glue is not necessary. You can use nail polish instead sparingly.

Check free play and operation.

The reel body is assembled. Check for rough feel. It is easy to balance the rotor. Just add a very small weight to counter the line guide. You have to experiment yourself.

Does the drag plates looks shiny to you? Yes, they are polished. The original finishing is rough and uneven. Dreadful!

**** Experiments showed that:

1. After polishing the drag plates, the initial start up force is reduced by 50% using original drag pads. Regardless of drag setting (1lbs, 3lbs and 5lbs)

2. The drag variation is reduced (dF/dt reduced because area is more flat)

3. The maximum drag is increased by 20%.

The drag places had uneven surfaces.
F = u A
where F=force, u is friction coefficient, and A is area.

If the Area is uneven, the force can vary from very large to none, from variation in contacts.

Also, u is non linear. After heating up, u drops significantly.

** Polishing the area of the plates allows a more constant A, less change in u. By removing the uneven surfaces, Area is bigger and results in a bigger stopping force!

The maximum locked force was measured at 39 lbs after modification. You are not advised to use this reel for big fish > 20lbs.

More water proof.

The line guides needs to be greased. The original setting is no oil at all. It will fail. Just apply light grease to the main shaft, plastic sleeve and the inside of the roller. If this part corrodes, you will need a new reel.

Mating the spool to the tuned body,

The reel is done!


Comparing with Shimano Stella, Sedona and even Stradic, this reel has better price to performance ratios, both subjective and by measurements.

Daiwa failed to obsolete this reel with the Tierra, Cabelas variants, or even the Fuego or Steez series. That is why they are still selling with silent upgrade. Please don’t fall for marketing gimmicks.

This reel does not need 3rd party parts change for upgrades, apart from Carbontex drag pads. Even the original drag pads work well.

This reel is well suited for rough usage. And it catches fishes. Perfect for Squid hunting or bait fish jigging. Enjoy ;)

Check my Daiwa SS1300 mods in this forum.

Sorry, the equation for the friction is wrong. Correction:

Static situation

F to move the spool = U static X F applied to both surfaces

Dynamic situation

F to move the spool = U dynamic X F applied to both surfaces

where U static is usually = 0.042, U dynamic = 0.039 (measured)

By changing A, the area, it is just making the area more flat and hence the U in above equation are kept constant. Otherwise U will be changing all the time and hence the jerk. Note that certain grease will be sticky and degrade and hence change the Us and Ud.

Setting the drag should result in a constant force. So, if you check your drag using a sprint balance it should be constant when you pull the line out. If it is jerky, you know what to do.

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