Rigging tips, tricks, ideas ...
Rigging tips, tricks, ideas ...
Let's hear about/see yours. I'll throw a few out to start.
EVA foam mats. These can be had cheap - if you have a Harbor Freight nearby, you can get a 4 pack for around $10. I traced my seat bottom and cut it out with a utility knife. I doubled the thickness of the seat and increased the comfort factor. It weighs next to nothing, water/moisture does not affect it and it lasts for years. Any adhesive will do, I used clear silicone caulk and weighed it with a sand bag overnight until it cured. Use some left over material and cut a rectangular strip. Glue it within reach of you when seated - you can store hooks, jigs, baits, etc. in it instead of reaching for your tackle bag every time. You can bury a hook past the barb in it and it still is easy to get it out. Again, it will last several seasons. Mine has about 1000 holes in it and still works great. Better than exposed hooks in a cramped area.
Scupper plugs. More fun with foam Foam practice golf balls make for great scupper plugs. Pierce them with an awl or a thin screwdriver. Thread a shoelace through, tie a knot and pull the knot tight against the ball. I sealed the knot/ball area with some automotive silicone sealant I had lying around. I tie the loose end off close by the scupper so there is no chance of losing it. I've read of others using a pool noodle to make them, but all of the ones around here are hollow down the center and the foam is not as dense as the golf balls. Either will work.
I'm throwing this anchor trolley diagram up for those who may not be familiar with them. Pretty self explanatory, too many rigging variables to go into detail.
Last thing I'll throw out there. If anyone has a crack and is going to repair it themselves, I have a large coil of clear polyethylene 1/8" dia. I had to repair mine a few years back and bought a one pound roll not realizing just how much that is (I could probably make half of another kayak) ... I'll gladly send a couple of feet of it to you for nothing (as long as you live in the US)
EVA foam mats. These can be had cheap - if you have a Harbor Freight nearby, you can get a 4 pack for around $10. I traced my seat bottom and cut it out with a utility knife. I doubled the thickness of the seat and increased the comfort factor. It weighs next to nothing, water/moisture does not affect it and it lasts for years. Any adhesive will do, I used clear silicone caulk and weighed it with a sand bag overnight until it cured. Use some left over material and cut a rectangular strip. Glue it within reach of you when seated - you can store hooks, jigs, baits, etc. in it instead of reaching for your tackle bag every time. You can bury a hook past the barb in it and it still is easy to get it out. Again, it will last several seasons. Mine has about 1000 holes in it and still works great. Better than exposed hooks in a cramped area.
Scupper plugs. More fun with foam Foam practice golf balls make for great scupper plugs. Pierce them with an awl or a thin screwdriver. Thread a shoelace through, tie a knot and pull the knot tight against the ball. I sealed the knot/ball area with some automotive silicone sealant I had lying around. I tie the loose end off close by the scupper so there is no chance of losing it. I've read of others using a pool noodle to make them, but all of the ones around here are hollow down the center and the foam is not as dense as the golf balls. Either will work.
I'm throwing this anchor trolley diagram up for those who may not be familiar with them. Pretty self explanatory, too many rigging variables to go into detail.
Last thing I'll throw out there. If anyone has a crack and is going to repair it themselves, I have a large coil of clear polyethylene 1/8" dia. I had to repair mine a few years back and bought a one pound roll not realizing just how much that is (I could probably make half of another kayak) ... I'll gladly send a couple of feet of it to you for nothing (as long as you live in the US)
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Re: Rigging tips, tricks, ideas ...
Good tips! I might do the same with the foam padding! My OK seat is pretty thin on the bottom. I rigged an Anchor Trolley on mine as well but I never seem to use it.
Re: Rigging tips, tricks, ideas ...
I don't use mine as much as I thought I would, but I'm glad it's there when I need it. It's nice when you're dialed in on a hot spot. It allows you to put the paddle in the clips and concentrate on fishing.MN BassFisher wrote:Good tips! I might do the same with the foam padding! My OK seat is pretty thin on the bottom. I rigged an Anchor Trolley on mine as well but I never seem to use it.
Re: Rigging tips, tricks, ideas ...
I have SeaDek in my Slayer 14.5 and will be putting SeaDek in the Slayer 13 also. It is kinda pricey but it is custom fit for the kayak and looks way better than the other stuff that was in it previously.
Paddles...I started out with a Carlisle Day Tripper as a beginner paddle and I thought it was okay. I bought a BB Angler Ace and thought it was okay. I now have a BB Abgler Pro and love it. There are paddles that are lighter, but the Angler Pro seems custom made for me. My next paddle may very well be a Werner Kaliste, but not for a while.
Paddles...I started out with a Carlisle Day Tripper as a beginner paddle and I thought it was okay. I bought a BB Angler Ace and thought it was okay. I now have a BB Abgler Pro and love it. There are paddles that are lighter, but the Angler Pro seems custom made for me. My next paddle may very well be a Werner Kaliste, but not for a while.
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Re: Rigging tips, tricks, ideas ...
I'd be pretty wary of anchoring sideways as shown in any significant current. Your tie points are above the waterline, water hits you at/below the waterline. You have just created a lever. Believe it or not, the water can roll you upstream and you won't be expecting it. Just last spring I read about an EXPERIENCED yaker that they pulled out of the river dead from hypothermia. Found his yak anchored upstream upside down.uljersey wrote:
I have personal experience with this effect due to getting sideways against a downed tree. Leaned away from the tree to avoid branches and the next thing I knew I was underwater. IF you're sideways and hung up or anchored lean downstream. Never lean upstream, you'll be helping it roll you.
Re: Rigging tips, tricks, ideas ...
Agreed. The purpose of the diagram was to show the different possible positions of the kayak in relation to the various positions of the anchor rope. Broadside in any current is a recipe for disaster.smalliesteve wrote:I'd be pretty wary of anchoring sideways as shown in any significant current. Your tie points are above the waterline, water hits you at/below the waterline. You have just created a lever. Believe it or not, the water can roll you upstream and you won't be expecting it. Just last spring I read about an EXPERIENCED yaker that they pulled out of the river dead from hypothermia. Found his yak anchored upstream upside down.uljersey wrote:
I have personal experience with this effect due to getting sideways against a downed tree. Leaned away from the tree to avoid branches and the next thing I knew I was underwater. IF you're sideways and hung up or anchored lean downstream. Never lean upstream, you'll be helping it roll you.
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Re: Rigging tips, tricks, ideas ...
Most of my kayak fishing is done in rivers with fairly swift current...traditional anchor trolleys are inherently dangerous in such settings, no bueno...devised my own simple and cost effective set up for river anchoring, I'll try to explain it without aid of a diagram here. Take your standard yak anchor,1 1/2 or 3 pound, and I like to use 15 to 20 feet of rope.Pop rivet a pad eye towards the very front of your bow,but slightly off to whichever side you personally prefer, left or right, but attach it on the top of the side edge of your boat ( the outer gunwale of a boat,where a trolley is usually attached, is a serious river snag hazard)....on the rail, essentially is where you want it, but way up towards the bow. Attach two more pad eyes in spaced succession progressing towards the seat from the bow, spaced roughly 10 inches apart, also up on the top rail edge...then on the interior of the boat near the seat, of course on the same side as the pad eyes (just barely inside, slightly down from the rail), pop rivet a zigzag mooring cleat. Then take your rope, thread it thru the pad eyes starting near the bow and going towards the seat. Place anchor either in open bow space(preferably) or by your feet if you have a hatch and cover at the bow...the rope rests near your seat at the ready. When you want to anchor, simply use your paddle to flip the anchor out, let travel to desired depth, then thread thru zigzag cleat. It's sturdy, it will anchor you facing into current,and it is super quick release if needs be to save yourself! When you want to bring it back in,simply unthread from cleat, pull in line until anchor surfaces, and use paddle again like a big spoon to scoop anchor back into bow. Works like a charm!
Re: Rigging tips, tricks, ideas ...
fish grip as an anchor. Use the fish grip on the nylon ring, clip fish grip to lilly pads, trees, stumps, thick grass and what not. Another good anchor is my stake out pole..
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Re: Rigging tips, tricks, ideas ...
pretty clever with the fish grip. I'll have to try that.Mang wrote:fish grip as an anchor. Use the fish grip on the nylon ring, clip fish grip to lilly pads, trees, stumps, thick grass and what not. Another good anchor is my stake out pole..