For the hardcore crankbait addicts.

[BucketHunter]

There is always lots of talk about 'tuning' a crankbait. Mystical assertions that some baits have 'it' and some that don't.
What is 'it' exactly for you?
When I tune a bait, (beyond getting it to track true) I want as tight a wobble as possible. I find that a tight wobble seems to put more water pressure at the front of the bait, instead of letting it by the body with wide sweeps of the bill. The 'wrong' action to me is that of a kwikfish or a flatfish (for a crank). It's unnatural and I can't get a bait to hunt in that scenario. Some baits never have good action, some never have bas, and some can be tuned for either.
Is this your experience? What do you look for in a crank bait that has 'it'?
Also, do you tweak the nose screw side to side? Crank it clockwise/counter clockwise? Play with hook sizing? Front bigger? Back Bigger? Sometimes the nose adjustments just don't pan out for me, and the bait becomes a write off. I suppose messing the hooks or suspendots could help?

[GOOD YEAR 71]

That's a whole lot of questions... All good, by the way. I tend to prefer things as simple as I can make them, so I'll say 'it' is simply if it catches fish. Nowadays most, not all, cranks run pretty good out the box. This once was not true, and I am still a firm believer some have superior harmonics to others. I've thrown countless away after losing confidence in them.

I may be in the minority here, but I don't believe they present a particularly natural presentation. Wide wobble, tight wobble, knockers and such, I doesn't matter. It's a reaction strike. Grinding does look somewhat like a crawdad busting loose however.

But, they sure are effective. To that end, I first swap hooks/split rings and give them a run to see what I'm working with. Straight out the box, I don't care what factory hardware they're supplied with, it gets swapped. I do this for confidence as much as uniformity before it ever gets wet. I know, I know...

So, beyond the obvious of color, size/weight, running depth, sound, there are a couple tricks. First, probably best not to mess with the line tie unless you have no choice. You'll know if you need to, otherwise leave well enough alone. SuspenDots, or strips, are fun to play with and can be highly relevant. Advice on hook sizing will likely vary wildly. Personally, I tend to upsize and go as large as I can, though on rare occasion have to downsize. It just depends.

Insofar as hunting, most cranks will do it but each requires different cadence to acquire. Of course, some are better than others, but rather than rely on what the lure might do I've had far better success manipulating with rod twitches and retrieve pauses. It won't take much to make a difference. Tight wobblers are built for higher speed retrieve, tend to work better in current as a result. Wide wobblers can work here, too, but I'm convinced fish miss strikes attempting to engulf. I've had better success retrieving wide wobblers as slow as they'll go.

I'll also touch on scent. I realize some think it's rubbish, to each their own, but I know I've landed more using it. No question about it, scent won't get more strikes but it will allow more time to get a better set. Especially when you feel that lack of weight as they engulf coming right at you. It matters. It can make a difference. So why risk it? I don't. Sometimes I even go so far as to score my cranks with a file, rough them up, make it mean. Fish like that... It's not my first move, but a last move before it hits the can. Sometimes it works by randomizing a little, tends to hold scent a little better, makes it look injured, whatever. Like I said, last move.

The old adage of chuck and wind is selling yourself short. To crank effectively requires focus, again I'm sure some will disagree, but when on point I know I've done better. They offer feel, so feel it. The slightest of slight subtlety can present itself effectively making all the difference.

I'm done. Time for bed. Peace.