Impossibly retarded question

[LowRange]

What line for big deep cranks up to 1 oz and frogs? I have a 36mm Tatula 153 spool I have spring swapped to a stiffer spring. Basically a Tatula 200 HLC spool. I will share this between two Tatula 200 reels. One on a Hyuga 72H for bombing big frogs and another on a XH Veritas winch for mag deep cranks in the 1 oz range. The stock 200 fixed inductor is over braked until you get up to over an ounce then its great up to 3 oz where it feels under braked. At 3/4, 7/8, 1 oz ect I like my 153 spool with a Catalina spring.

30# braid is my normal deep crank line of choice so cranks and braid is nothing new to me. I want something that can handle locked down drags and not dig in and can also turn around and be used with deep cranks and allow rated or near rated depth. Some of these deep cranks are rated for 14# flouro to get max depth so would a 50# make sense? I'll add an appropriate diameter mono leader to help with shock absorption. For the cranks rated on 8# mono I know I lose a little depth.

[Drakestar]

To me those two applications are incompatible TBH. 50-65lbs straight braid for frogs, but I’d expect that diameter (floating!) braid to cost you cranking depth for sure. That said, I deep-crank on 12lbs straight fluoro. If 30lbs braid has gotten you the depth you want, I’m interested to hear case studies for larger diameter braid.

Maybe go 50lbs Maxcuatro braid (supposedly 25% thinner) but with a very long fluoro leader when cranking? Of course thinner braid will dig in again…

[setsail26]

40 lb maxcuatro is the same diameter as 12 lb tatsu. It will, therefore, allow crankbaits to run equally deep. Floating or sinking line has nothing to do with it, it is all about line diameter and water resistance. I'd be fine frogging with 40 lb maxcuatro, since it is probably 60 lb line, and I doubt that you would get much dig in at that line diameter. I'm sure other braids would work fine, I just picked maxcuatro because it was mentioned.

[LowRange]

To me those two applications are incompatible TBH. 50-65lbs straight braid for frogs, but I’d expect that diameter (floating!) braid to cost you cranking depth for sure. That said, I deep-crank on 12lbs straight fluoro. If 30lbs braid has gotten you the depth you want, I’m interested to hear case studies for larger diameter braid.

Maybe go 50lbs Maxcuatro braid (supposedly 25% thinner) but with a very long fluoro leader when cranking? Of course thinner braid will dig in again…

I have been getting rated depth with 30# braid for years with baits rated for 8# mono since 30# has the same diameter. The floating/sinking has no effect because the line is never below the bait to pull it down except when the bait is paused and allowed to float. The line is above and bowed behind the bait from water resistance and is actively fighting against the steep diving action of a deep crank. This is why diameter is the deciding factor in deep crank depth and not material. It's why 20# braid gets baits way deeper than 20# flouro despite 20# flouro sinking and being quite heavy. My concern is mainly the diameter. I would like to run 65# braid but thats like a 16# mono.

[LowRange]

Just not going to get rated depth with cranks up to 1oz. The bigger mag deep cranks I probably can with a 50-65# braid in .36mm diameter since those mag cranks are depth rated for 14-16# fouro. It's XH mag deep crank rod rated up to 2 1/2 oz but 1 3/4 is about the upper limit based on how it handles S Waver 168s which feel like the upper sweet spot. Just trying to justify a $130 Tatula 200 purchase. I want righty 7:1 gears for my 6:1 150 HD Custom and another reel purchace will enable a gear swap and put a reel on a vacant mag deep crankbait rod. This rod can be used as punch, rat and deep crank rod with access to 3 200 spools. The Ray's 200, 200 HLC and stock spool. May just have to use the stock spool with flouro for mag deep cranks since that spool does well once over an ounce.

[SSS]

Try the a 20lb Berkley X9 with a 14lb fluoro leader.

[hoohoorjoo]

Try the Berkley X9 with a 14lb fluoro leader.

Agreed, that line is crazy-thin for its ratings and has held up very well for me.

[DirtyD64]

One of the local tournament fisherman that wins a lot uses straight 30lb braid. Says he occasionally uses something different, but uses 30lb on almost all techniques and setups. Cranking with braid is odd to me, I see how it would work, I used to crank with a fast action jig rod when I started fishing.

Cranking is just a personal preference thing, I know guys that throw glass rods with mono and others that throw stiffer rods with braid. For me a graphite cranking rod with straight fluorocarbon is right in the middle of the stretch spectrum.

I know I didn't help answer anything you asked, but do you never get dig in using that light of braid? Chunking heavy cranks long distance would guarantee me one flying off into the wild. I am even in the process of switching my topwater rod to mono.

[LowRange]

Fritts cranks with braid but not 50# test. I'm thinking I'll not be able to share the 153 spool between the reels and just use the stock fixed inductor.

[Drakestar]

I have been getting rated depth with 30# braid for years with baits rated for 8# mono since 30# has the same diameter. The floating/sinking has no effect because the line is never below the bait to pull it down except when the bait is paused and allowed to float. The line is above and bowed behind the bait from water resistance and is actively fighting against the steep diving action of a deep crank. This is why diameter is the deciding factor in deep crank depth and not material. It's why 20# braid gets baits way deeper than 20# flouro despite 20# flouro sinking and being quite heavy. My concern is mainly the diameter. I would like to run 65# braid but thats like a 16# mono.

Braid vs Fluoro for deep cranking is not a hill I'll choose to ever die on because I haven't done enough experimentation. I agree with your points about line diameter affecting water resistance (and thus running depth). In my mind, floating line doesn't affect the running depth itself, but I figured it can affect how quickly the crankbait actually reaches running depth (because the bow in the line - and this the amount of resistance - is different as it's cranked down). Might not be a factor in real life, though.

[SteveSchmelzle]

One of the local tournament fisherman that wins a lot uses straight 30lb braid. Says he occasionally uses something different, but uses 30lb on almost all techniques and setups. Cranking with braid is odd to me, I see how it would work, I used to crank with a fast action jig rod when I started fishing.

Cranking is just a personal preference thing, I know guys that throw glass rods with mono and others that throw stiffer rods with braid. For me a graphite cranking rod with straight fluorocarbon is right in the middle of the stretch spectrum.

I know I didn't help answer anything you asked, but do you never get dig in using that light of braid? Chunking heavy cranks long distance would guarantee me one flying off into the wild. I am even in the process of switching my topwater rod to mono.

I purchase 30lbs bulk spools of braid and use it for 95% of my bass fishing, as well as my walleye, salmon, trout and just about everything else I fish for.

I use varying lengths and sizes of leader line, but 30lbs braid can handle just about every technique that will catch every fish that swims.

[Cal]

What line for big deep cranks up to 1 oz and frogs?

So for me... these two are mutually exclusive.

For deep cranking, regardless of the type of line, I want thin diameter for the least amount of resistance. All the floating and sinking characteristics don't apply if you're keeping the bait moving.

For frogs, I want something thicker for the resistance to abrasion and impact strength on hook sets.