Thanks, I will have to give this a shot. Not really sure which mono is best, I have never really used it except for Carolina rig leaders (thought it was supposed to help lure float, it didn't). I throw pretty small topwaters the few times I do throw them, do you think 16lb mono will still allow me to chunk little poppers and walkers without affecting their action negatively?poisonokie wrote:First off, I'm sure you know all this, but I thought I'd lay it out there anyway.DirtyD64 wrote:
I use it on an old Zillion TWS with a 7'3"MH and the issues mainly occur with 1/2 FB jigs or slightly heavier lures. Senko's, lighter TX rigs, lighter 4" or less swimbaits, etc. don't really do it so bad. Just seems I would rather have fluoro now and I'm tempted to switch to 12lb mono on my topwater setup rather than the same mentioned 30lb braid.
It might help if you either flush your bearings or slap some hedgehogs in there. On reels with braid is where I see the greatest benefit from ceramics. I bet you're casting a lot harder and farther with that football jig, which increases the likelihood of a backlash from the increased spool RPM. Ceramics would smooth it out and help it maintain a constant speed.
Also 30# is pretty thin, which causes the digging. Going to 40 would help without impacting distance too much. It'd be great if they made a faster worm shaft for use with braid on the Zillion TWS, but afaik they don't.
As far as the line for topwater goes, you can go heavier. If you spool up all the way with 16#, you'll have plenty of line for bombing casts, plus it will help keep your lure on the surface since it floats better because it doesn't break the surface tension as easily. Also you have the added benefit of a more secure link to your pricey plugs. I use 16# super natural on a basically stock OG Tatula for a lot of topwaters and get hella distance and great action out of my lures.
Ah. No, I use 15# braid for little poppers, binksy's, and Zara puppies. I was thinking more along the lines of pompadours and shower blows, stuff like that. If I were to use mono for lighter topwaters, I guess I'd stick with 10-12#. The only reason I don't use mono for them is I throw them on s setup I also use for jerkbaits, finesse cranks, and finesse plastics around vegetation (like 1/8-1/4 total weight jika rigs.) Otherwise I would use lighter mono as it would probably work best for walkers and small propbaits like the Kelly Jr. The thinner the line, the more readily it breaks surface tension, affecting the action of your lure, and once braid does that, it doesn't float back up, so I think floating nylon with the thickest diameter you can get away with is best. I don't have a lot of experience with different nylon lines, especially the expensive ones like Defier, but I've had good luck with super natural and prefer it over trilene xl, xt, or stren. Good luck, brother.DirtyD64 wrote:I throw pretty small topwaters the few times I do throw them, do you think 16lb mono will still allow me to chunk little poppers and walkers without affecting their action negatively?
To be accurate, FC is a mono line. It is just made of flourocarbons instead of nylon. There is only one filament, as opposed to many filaments in braid.MardukFIN wrote:Why to use fluorocarbon as main line? I use it as a leader to avoid rock and tooth contacts, but otherwise it's so crappy line to use (monofilament also same..)
-Thickness compared to diameter
-It's like rubber band - no contact to lure as it streeeeeeeeeeeetchs
- It doesnt stay nicely on spool - massive birdnests if i get tension lose even a bit.
- shitty tensile strength compared to thickness
-Invisibility on water
- Doesn't bring water to spool (on cold weather)
I've used braid since 1st generation of Fireline came. Never go back to nylon or fluor anymore! Braid's features are so superior compared to those others. I use 0,10-0,15mm diameter (10-15lb) for small lures and 0,20-0,40mm (20-80lb) for pike.
With very light lures thin braid (0,10mm) is way more better as THICK 0,20mm rubberband-fluoro.
Don't take this as offensive. We're just wondering, why americans use that fluoro so much? I know dozens of fisherman here in Finland. Guys who fish over 100 days/year. No one uses fluoro or mono. NO ONE.
Previous replies have answered pretty well. I will add that there are different formulations of FC that customize performance for specific techniques.
I mainly use braid when pike fishing and for all saltwater fishing including seatrout along the coast due to the very long casts needed there (mono casts fine but when bites occur with >50 yards of line out then the stretch becomes too much of a good thing).
I have yet to use fluoro as a mainline but have just recently recieved Sunline FC Sniper, which I will try for trout fishing in streams this season.
I've been throwing weightless super flukes a lot at the river, how would FC work with this? I imagine I would lose casting distance cause I use 20lb braid now and that casts super well. I don't want to use a leader either cause I have micro guides.
Anyway what weight and brand of FC would someone recommend for throwing weightless soft plastics?
Most of my fishing is done with mono / copoly / fluoro, I truly hate braid for anything that isn't frogging. Some people may enjoy the lack of stretch but to me it's more of a hindrance, that little stretch just gives the fish that extra 1/4 second to close it's mouth and gives you a better hookset. Abrasion resistance is also a bit part of the deal and also buoyancy.
To each their own keep on fishing what suits you best !