FC leader tip - go heavy, go loose!
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FC leader tip - go heavy, go loose!
This is a tip I've learnt myself and I also saw another angler do this too. The whole logic behind it is that when fluoro line pops or suffers heavy load, whole area around its breakage is perma-stretched and weakened. This forces you to cut out the damaged area and retie consuming your time or, if you're too lazy, a trophy fish.
You can overcome this by choosing a heavier leader and deliberately tying your leader-to-lure knot weaker so it breaks under load far lighter than the line's lb test. I've found applying fewer wraps(for the knots that requires wraps) to be the most consistent and reliable way of controlling a knot's strength. In this way you will be able to effectively protect your line system from being damaged by heavy load while making your leader even more scratch-proof. It doesn't harm your casting distance and makes damm sure my line always breaks at the hook.
Of course you need to have your knot break at the exact load you want and go through some trial and error before you hit the water. As for me, I attatch 8lb fluoro leader to 6lb braided mainline via a FG knot and my leader-lure knot which is a weakend uni breaks at around 4-5lb.
You can overcome this by choosing a heavier leader and deliberately tying your leader-to-lure knot weaker so it breaks under load far lighter than the line's lb test. I've found applying fewer wraps(for the knots that requires wraps) to be the most consistent and reliable way of controlling a knot's strength. In this way you will be able to effectively protect your line system from being damaged by heavy load while making your leader even more scratch-proof. It doesn't harm your casting distance and makes damm sure my line always breaks at the hook.
Of course you need to have your knot break at the exact load you want and go through some trial and error before you hit the water. As for me, I attatch 8lb fluoro leader to 6lb braided mainline via a FG knot and my leader-lure knot which is a weakend uni breaks at around 4-5lb.
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Re: FC leader tip - go heavy, go loose!
Makes sense to me, provided that:
1. The diameter of FC you end up using is not so great as to diminish strikes;
2. You have pretested the braid/leader combo to determine its average break strength with the junction knot, so that your intentionally weakened end knot is just a couple of pounds below that; and
3. The reason you are breaking off so often that you need this measure is unavoidable snagging. (If it were fish breaking off multiple times an hour, I'd rethink my tackle and try to leave fewer of them swimming with a lure in their mouths.)
1. The diameter of FC you end up using is not so great as to diminish strikes;
2. You have pretested the braid/leader combo to determine its average break strength with the junction knot, so that your intentionally weakened end knot is just a couple of pounds below that; and
3. The reason you are breaking off so often that you need this measure is unavoidable snagging. (If it were fish breaking off multiple times an hour, I'd rethink my tackle and try to leave fewer of them swimming with a lure in their mouths.)
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Re: FC leader tip - go heavy, go loose!
Exactly.Bronzeye wrote:Makes sense to me, provided that:
1. The diameter of FC you end up using is not so great as to diminish strikes;
2. You have pretested the braid/leader combo to determine its average break strength with the junction knot, so that your intentionally weakened end knot is just a couple of pounds below that; and
3. The reason you are breaking off so often that you need this measure is unavoidable snagging. (If it were fish breaking off multiple times an hour, I'd rethink my tackle and try to leave fewer of them swimming with a lure in their mouths.)
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Re: FC leader tip - go heavy, go loose!
How about just putting split rings of just a slight bit less strength than the rest of the rig. They make them...
That takes out the guess work and you only lose a hook.
That takes out the guess work and you only lose a hook.
Re: FC leader tip - go heavy, go loose!
My unis fail in the nonbraid at the knot as if the braid is cutting into the nonbraid at the juncture. I'm not sure if bumping up a size or two on the nonbraid would alleviate this. Honestly don't know. I'll have to give it a shot.
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Re: FC leader tip - go heavy, go loose!
Forget the uni, learn how to FG or at least albright. Tbh the FG was the only braid to leader knot that I found reliable.LowRange wrote:My unis fail in the nonbraid at the knot as if the braid is cutting into the nonbraid at the juncture. I'm not sure if bumping up a size or two on the nonbraid would alleviate this. Honestly don't know. I'll have to give it a shot.
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Re: FC leader tip - go heavy, go loose!
That is pretty neat. But I use fairly light tackle and most of the split rings available are way stronger than my line. And sometimes you don't want a split ring dangling at your hook.Mike and Pike wrote:How about just putting split rings of just a slight bit less strength than the rest of the rig. They make them...
That takes out the guess work and you only lose a hook.
With that being said, I think the split ring is a brilliant idea and I'd surely try them if I can get one light enough.
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Re: FC leader tip - go heavy, go loose!
Have you tried modified unis? Being extra wraps around hook eyes or on the knot itself. Uni to uni is a very reliable (universal in fact) and bery strong with some modification depending on lines used.Prancing Pony wrote:Forget the uni, learn how to FG or at least albright. Tbh the FG was the only braid to leader knot that I found reliable.LowRange wrote:My unis fail in the nonbraid at the knot as if the braid is cutting into the nonbraid at the juncture. I'm not sure if bumping up a size or two on the nonbraid would alleviate this. Honestly don't know. I'll have to give it a shot.
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Re: FC leader tip - go heavy, go loose!
They make split rings designed as 'break aways' , more open, at certain tests. Off hand I forget the brands or I would cite some. Made of a Ti alloy and springy.Prancing Pony wrote:That is pretty neat. But I use fairly light tackle and most of the split rings available are way stronger than my line. And sometimes you don't want a split ring dangling at your hook.Mike and Pike wrote:How about just putting split rings of just a slight bit less strength than the rest of the rig. They make them...
That takes out the guess work and you only lose a hook.
With that being said, I think the split ring is a brilliant idea and I'd surely try them if I can get one light enough.
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Re: FC leader tip - go heavy, go loose!
Yes actually it once was my go to knot(double wraps 'round the eye) but I've switched to palomar. Less chance of damaging your line while tightening the knot. Doubling the whole uni, I didn't like it for it was too bulky.Mike and Pike wrote:Have you tried modified unis? Being extra wraps around hook eyes or on the knot itself. Uni to uni is a very reliable (universal in fact) and bery strong with some modification depending on lines used.Prancing Pony wrote:Forget the uni, learn how to FG or at least albright. Tbh the FG was the only braid to leader knot that I found reliable.LowRange wrote:My unis fail in the nonbraid at the knot as if the braid is cutting into the nonbraid at the juncture. I'm not sure if bumping up a size or two on the nonbraid would alleviate this. Honestly don't know. I'll have to give it a shot.
The FG knot is just smaller and more reliable than the uni. It is the strongest/smallest leader to braid knot ever known, with the exception of the PR knot which requires a knotter. Once you get the hang of it you will never look back.
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Re: FC leader tip - go heavy, go loose!
Palomar is not always doable as you know or I'd use it more. I will give the FG a shot on some stuff.
A lot of my fishing is throwing 1-12oz baits and the ten wraps of a uni is the least bulky or obnoxious thing going on with my rig.
A lot of my fishing is throwing 1-12oz baits and the ten wraps of a uni is the least bulky or obnoxious thing going on with my rig.
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Re: FC leader tip - go heavy, go loose!
Oh I'm sure you'll fall in love with the FG. You can find many instruction videos on Youtube and I strongly recommend the ones using the rod to give the leader some tension. The other method using your fingers was a struggle bus for me.Mike and Pike wrote:Palomar is not always doable as you know or I'd use it more. I will give the FG a shot on some stuff.
A lot of my fishing is throwing 1-12oz baits and the ten wraps of a uni is the least bulky or obnoxious thing going on with my rig.
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Re: FC leader tip - go heavy, go loose!
I "think" I understand the concept here: lose the terminal tackle, in your example, but not the leader line AND the terminal tackle. A sacrifice of a sort!
I do something similar with drop shot rigs when I use a specialized Gamakatsu hook with a swivel. Below it, it has one of those pinch grip attachments so that you can slide a separate line down to the sinker. So, if I am using 8 lbs. leader to the hook itself, I put on 6 test or even less down to the weight/sinker.
I think the theory here is the same: Most of the time with drop shot rigs, it's the weight that gets hung up, so I want the weaker line to break loose and, in my case, save the more expensive Gamy hook and my Roboworm or whatever I am using.
For your application, I'd tie the FG the night before, fish it as long as it holds up. But, if I did break off or found the leader or the mainline near the leader junction knot abraded, I'd just re-tie using an Albright or a Uni-to_Uni knot. It is just easier to tie on a boat or from a kayak.
Still, it would require a new junction knot and a new terminal knot taking time to get it all put back together. So, your point is certainly valid.
Brad
I do something similar with drop shot rigs when I use a specialized Gamakatsu hook with a swivel. Below it, it has one of those pinch grip attachments so that you can slide a separate line down to the sinker. So, if I am using 8 lbs. leader to the hook itself, I put on 6 test or even less down to the weight/sinker.
I think the theory here is the same: Most of the time with drop shot rigs, it's the weight that gets hung up, so I want the weaker line to break loose and, in my case, save the more expensive Gamy hook and my Roboworm or whatever I am using.
For your application, I'd tie the FG the night before, fish it as long as it holds up. But, if I did break off or found the leader or the mainline near the leader junction knot abraded, I'd just re-tie using an Albright or a Uni-to_Uni knot. It is just easier to tie on a boat or from a kayak.
Still, it would require a new junction knot and a new terminal knot taking time to get it all put back together. So, your point is certainly valid.
Brad