Switched to Daiwa ... HELP !!!

[ecu daniel 14]

I recently switched from abu to daiwa also. I have a revo sx and it wasnt bad, just not for me. I now have a daiwa zillion coastal and I love it. I took it out for the first time today and had one backlash all day (because I casted a balsa crank directly into about 15 mph wind)...just make sure your breaks are completely off while setting your cast control knob...allow the lure to fall slowly but controlled to the ground so there is no loose line around your spool when it hits...then adjust your magnetic breaks (I have mine set on around 4)...you can cast anything a mile...even further then any abu I have used...

[RGMatt]

He is a Quantum fanatic

Ah, I see. Well, Quantum uses magnetic braking as well and it is inferior to Daiwa's Magforce in every way, in my opinion. Oh well, to each his own.

Quantum uses a centrifugal brake system Not magnetic. It externally adjustable which may be where the confusion is. Either way you can have em cause I don't want em.

I never had a problem when I switched to Daiwa. I usually set my tension pretty loose too. Mag setting anywhere between 3 and 5 depending on the wind conditions.

[bassohol]

He is a Quantum fanatic

Ah, I see. Well, Quantum uses magnetic braking as well and it is inferior to Daiwa's Magforce in every way, in my opinion. Oh well, to each his own.

Quantum uses a centrifugal brake system Not magnetic. It externally adjustable which may be where the confusion is. Either way you can have em cause I don't want em.

I never had a problem when I switched to Daiwa. I usually set my tension pretty loose too. Mag setting anywhere between 3 and 5 depending on the wind conditions.

My mistake. Yes, part of the confusion stems from the external adjustability, but the rest come from my only exposure to the insides being on the ACS3 equipped reels. I knew there weren't any visible magnets, but there also aren't any visible collars/shoes/etc. that centrifugal reels use, so I just assumed. We all know what assuming does Now I know they are hidden in the spool.

Either way, I'm with you. I don't care for them.

[spicytuna]

Let the rod do the work for you. Have the rod load up and follow through with a smooth motion on the release. I can cast hard with my Zillions with minimal thumbing and the spool tension backed way down. (3/8 - 1 oz lure falling fast in freespool). At first, try setting the brakes to a higher setting, and slowly back down on the brakes as you get a feel for the reel and the motion. When you get used to the form and technique you are going to love their reels.

It was only after I backed off the spool tension (so that the spool just stops wiggling side-to-side) that I started to love Daiwa reels more than any other. This really makes the reel come alive.

I also like to use this setting, especially for the lighter lures. I found that I can use this setting to fling lures that are under the minimum rating for my G. Loomis MBR 782C or 842C GLX rod.

[dragon1]

Casting motion + release point + rod + line + lure....

Oh yeah, most importantly, that one opposable member on your hand.

[Buck2thPerch]

I have Shimano's, Quantums, Abu's, Daiwa's. Never had casting problems unless I change lure size and forget to up the brake or a bad wind gust hits me while I am casting. I think its a combination of no thumb and too much snapping of the wrist that will do you in with bird nests.

[bladerunner]

Smooth motion....no giant wrist snap at the end. Use your thumb at the end of the cast. Did you turn the brakes off when setting the spool tension?

Yes turned brakes off - but I was wrist snapping. I re-spooled and casting is fine. I panicked for no reason.

[bladerunner]

Thank everyone for the input. The Daiwas and I are perfect now. I actually re-spooled the reel and its been flawlwss ever since - not one backlash. I think I spooled my crankster sloppily and the line seemed more built up on one side. After respooling its been dreamy.

[Pmedicbm]

It'll just take a little getting use to.. Just give it a little time. I switched from all Shimano to Daiwa a few years back and had the same problems.. After a little time on the water though it all smoothed out and now I'm up and running...

[Buck2thPerch]

Oh yeah, never over spool. I always leave at least 1/8th an inch from the top of the spool. This is one thing I have learned from fishing many various types of baitcasting reels.

[Carlos Carrapiço]

1) Spool with 16lb mono (no FC).
2) Spool tension knob set to the point were the lure will not fall when the reel is in free spool.
3) Magnetic brake at Max
4) Don't snap or jerk your cast. Daiwa is optimized to cast further with less effort. Take advantage of this.
5) After the first casts start to lower the Magnetic brake.
6) If you like to take full control then lower the spool tension.

[ecu daniel 14]

4) Don't snap or jerk your cast. Daiwa is optimized to cast further with less effort. Take advantage of this.

Exactly, I figured that out on the first cast of my new zillion coastal. I was so used to trying to fling the hell out of my Abu that I got a wicked backlash....after you get used to how easy it is to launch lures with your Daiwa I can almost guarantee you wont go back to Abu. Now I have mine set so the lure falls rather quickly with the tension knob and my breaks set on 4. With VERY little effort I am able to cast a 1/2 lipless crank extremely far, much further then when I was flinging my Abu as hard as I could.

[BassFreak]

Casts need to be smooth and fluid. And preferably not from daiwa. I don't get all the hype adout daiwa. A whole lot of people in reviews of reels and line will say that the products suck when they just either don't use their thumbs enough or rely on cast control systems to the point of laziness. In my experience neither daiwa or shimano get top awards simply due to price versus actual quality. a low end IMO daiwa will cost you $250 min. and shimano until you reach 300 in the chronarch they are all made with cheap sidecovers. Just some thoughts.

This seems like a pretty ridiculous statement. There is nothing wrong with Daiwa or Shimano either one. However, it is true that having a smart thumb is really the key to being successful with a caster. Things can go south in a hurry if you rely too heavily on cast control and braking.

As far as price versus quality goes, I don't know what you're basing your statement on. The Shimano Curado is one of the most highly regarded and durable reels on the market and they definitely don't cost $300. In my opinion, it is one of the best values on the market today. The sidecover material has nothing to do with anything. As long as they are carefully constructed with tight tolerances, the sidecovers could be made of rubber and it would be fine. But, what does any of that have to do with Daiwa's braking?

He is a Quantum fanatic

Shhhhh... Its KVD himself taking a little breather from winning.. LOL

[DrPerf]

1) Spool with 16lb mono (no FC).

Nothing but braid (16-30lb) or fluorocarbon (10-20lb) in all my Daiwa reels. No problems at all.

Doc

[Carlos Carrapiço]

1) Spool with 16lb mono (no FC).

Nothing but braid (16-30lb) or fluorocarbon (10-20lb) in all my Daiwa reels. No problems at all.

Doc

Daiwa reels are capable of handling all lines. The point is that for new users, FC makes the break in period more difficult. Once you understand how to cast Daiwa reels then you can go to whatever line you like.
More, a bird nest made of FC is still more expensive than made of nylon and I can't see any advantage on that.