Favorite dropshot weight

[Derek777]

ive used quite a few different types, but the voss seems to work the best. i can see how the lead core line would work well, and ill give it a shot as well.

[froteur]

i like the voss weights, especially the banana shaped ones.

[Fishn_Fatboy]

id say pear shape least amount of hang up

[wsunweed]

I do an S-load of drop-shot fishing. This is the only technique that I truly feel I have down to a science. I have used lead hollow core for DS and I personally think that it is absolutely crap for this application. To be successful with drop shot fishing you need to be able to get your bait down quickly, keep it down,and you need to be able to feel your $#%T. Knowing exactly where the bait is relative to the structure on your graph can be key at times.

Lead core is not as dense as poured lead and therefore requires a larger profile (much larger) to achieve the same weight and aerodynamic. The larger shape makes the bait flutter on the way down as well which sucks for fishing vertical structure like bridge columns, barge pilings and pump houses. Also, as you have already guessed, the lack of density decreases feel for the bottom.

I have used the tear drop and yes they seem to snag a little less but I still lost everyone Ive ever bought and they are not cheap. The round snag the most because they roll right into gaps.

When the conditions call for a drop shot I just plan on losing a lot of lead. Which is why I only pay 5 cents a piece for them on ebay. I wonder if this is bad for the environment

I like the cylindrical / stick ds sinker the best because they sink very fast and very straight even in heavy current. This next reason is difficult to explain but cylindrical shape is nice because you can feel them topple over while on the bottom. Feeling the sinker topple over on the bottom enables me to recognize when my sinker hits the bottom and what kind of structure (to some degree, horizontals vs. diagonals) the bottom is composed of. But most importantly it creates an indicator or i guess you could say it creates forgiveness when I am lifting (giving action to) the bait. You will feel two moments of resistance, one when the sinker tips up and one when the sinker loses contact with the bottom. It basically just has a way of warning you before you actually move your bait.

[WCCT]

http://www.tacklewarehouse.com/West_Coa ... -WCQD.html

I read an article from GYCB on these weights and so far so good.

These are IMO the best available. They are readily available up here and seem to come through the rocks better than most. Marc Marcantonio, who owns the company is also a great guy and one of the best tournament anglers on the West Coast. He is always more than willing to share info on various techniques and applications, which to me is what makes this sport great. Great product!

[Feedingseagulls]

After 5 years of doing lots of drop shot fishing in a rocky river for smallmouth bass, and trying most commercially available sinkers, I have settled on using the same system that steelhead fishermen have used for decades. I use hollow lead wire. It comes in several diameters and is inexpensive. I cut to the amount of weight I want, run my line through the hole and peg it with a toothpick. I usually tie a single overhand knot to stop slipping. I then bend the lead into a shallow U shape, and go fishing. Rock snags are almost all gone. You can get this lead wire through most major tackle suppliers (Cabela's, etc) and most tackle shops where there are steelhead fishermen.

Anyone know somewhere that will send some of this hollow lead wire abroad at reasonable rates?

[Nytron]

After 5 years of doing lots of drop shot fishing in a rocky river for smallmouth bass, and trying most commercially available sinkers, I have settled on using the same system that steelhead fishermen have used for decades. I use hollow lead wire. It comes in several diameters and is inexpensive. I cut to the amount of weight I want, run my line through the hole and peg it with a toothpick. I usually tie a single overhand knot to stop slipping. I then bend the lead into a shallow U shape, and go fishing. Rock snags are almost all gone. You can get this lead wire through most major tackle suppliers (Cabela's, etc) and most tackle shops where there are steelhead fishermen.

I'd love a link/picture or a diagram to this method. So instead of using a compact dense drop shot weight, you use the weight of hollow core wire and shape it in a giant "U"? In my mind, this won't work as well because there will be increased drag from large wires as well as this odd u-shaped thing distracting fish from the bait. I tend to fish clear lakes setting my weight 6" from the bait, so I guess it might not apply to that application but who knows.

[RIK]

I like the skinny weights for weeds, not so much for rocks, although if you bend them slightly it does seem to help for some reason - maybe because they can't roll that way. If it's really snaggy, I actually use Water Gremlin Bull Shot weights, and mash them almost flat with a pliers. Don't snag much, and if you do, who cares? They're $1.25 a dozen...

[Reel Old Geezer]

I'd love a link/picture or a diagram to this method.

This should help.


The roll of hollow lead should last many years. I run the wire down the hollow lead so it won't collapse when I cut off a piece. I also ream out the hole a bit to make inserting the line easier. You can see the "U" bend on the rigged one is not very drastic. I usually bend it a hair more. The lead bends easily and can be bent as desired. The largest weight in the photo (1.4") weighs just less than 1/4 oz and the small one (1") on the rig weighs about 1/8 oz.

FYI: the rod is a Daiwa Cielo 6'3" (which I modified bit), with a Shimano Saros 1000F, 5 lb Power Pro braid, and the bait is a BassTrix Flash Trix 3" minnow. This is my favorite light drop shot rig for river smallmouth fishing.