Working on Reels - Tips!

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ChuckE
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Re: Working on Reels - Tips!

Postby ChuckE » Thu Dec 28, 2006 9:38 pm

I keep a notebook handy at my work bench, to keep track of parts that I eventually want to order, as I work on my reels. I used to order parts, and then realized shortly after I hung up the phone, that I should have also got a few extra small items -- I'd tell myself that I'll get them the next time, but sure enough, that seldom happened. I eventually realized that I needed to keep a list.

Although I keep plenty of E Clips, frame screws, bearing retainer clips, springs, etc. on hand, you'd be suprised at how fast you can go through them after working on several reels. In addition, if you don't keep bench spares on hand: then you may want to jot down that you'll need a new frame screw the next time you work on the reel because the screw head is starting to look a little ragged; the spring on a ratchet pawl is a little loose and could be replaced the next time you do a mini-lube; or if you lightly scratch the surface of a washer that an E-Clip rides on when reassembling a reel, jot down you need to replace the washer the next time you clean the reel. Keeping the list not only helps when it comes time to placing the order, but it can also provide insight on what problems might be encountered as you use the reel, or even as you disassemble it the next time.

If you need to order parts for your latest upgrade or repair project from Daiwa, Shimano, etc. that's the time to also get the small items on the list. Most of the service centers charge a hefty handling and shipping fee, so getting the low priced screws, clips, washers, and retainers you need doesn't really add to the cost of the order. Oftentimes, the shipping and handling costs can be higher than the cost of the small parts, so order smartley and thoroughly!

Chuck

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Re: Working on Reels - Tips!

Postby Gun Doc » Mon Jan 01, 2007 9:16 am

Somebody give me some tips about working with, ESPECIALLY REOMVING, "C" clips and "E" clips. These things are the most difficult aspect of working on my reels, and are responsible for 90+% of slips, dings, and scratches on my reels. Not to mention at least a couple of drops of blood!

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Re: Working on Reels - Tips!

Postby ChuckE » Mon Jan 01, 2007 9:40 am

I remove E-clips by putting one edge of a 3/16" flat (and thin) screwdriver in an opening of the clip, and work the rest of the tip like a lever across the shaft, pin etc. it is attached to. If you go slow and work at the correct angle (almost straight down on it), it will come right off without much difficulty or slipping, especially if the screwdriver tip is thin. One of the things that will help is to restrain a shaft that will turn, by putting a finger on the other end (like on the gear for a level wind worm). I admit that it does take some practice, and I had my fair share of 'oooops' when I first started.

Most of the time the clip remains right near the shaft after it is removed, because I coated it with a very-very light film of grease, before I put it on. However, if it doesn't have the grease on it, it can fly off and become 'lost in space'.

I don't encounter C Clips that often, and when I do it usually isn't pretty. So like GunDoc, I'm interested in any tips on them!

Chuck

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Re: Working on Reels - Tips!

Postby ChuckE » Fri Feb 02, 2007 7:23 am

I've gotten several PMs/emails from members asking for the links to the articles on cleaning bearings, anti-reverse bearing maintenance, troubleshooting, etc. So, thought I'd include the links in here:

Bearings 101 - http://www.tackletour.com/articlebearings101.html
Bearings 201 - http://www.tackletour.com/articlebearings201.html
Bearings 301 - http://www.tackletour.com/articlebearings301.html

Chuck

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Re: Working on Reels - Tips!

Postby GAMEOVER » Tue Feb 13, 2007 11:42 am

Thanks a lot chuck! This gave me the confidence I need to take my reel(s) completely apart.

*bookmarked

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ChuckE
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Re: Working on Reels - Tips!

Postby ChuckE » Mon Aug 13, 2007 5:22 am

I've received recent PMs from forum members asking about spool pin pliers. So here are the links to previous topics that discussed how to make them, along with more tips for removing pins:

http://www.tackletour.net/T3Forum/viewtopic.php?t=9097

http://www.tackletour.net/T3Forum/viewtopic.php?t=13038

http://www.tackletour.net/T3Forum/viewtopic.php?t=18778

Alan Tani had a picture of a set of pliers he modified for removing pins. He essentially ground part of the side away on a pair of pliers, and he included a picture in his Bearings, Bearings, Bearings article. Unfortunately, the links to the picture are no longer working.

So if anyone has saved the picture it would be great to post it somewhere.

Chuck

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Re: Working on Reels - Tips!

Postby ChuckE » Mon Aug 13, 2007 6:46 am

I found a link to Alan Tani's Bearings, Bearings, Bearings article that seems to be working. About 1/2 way through the article you'll see the pliers he modified to remove spool pins.

http://www.bloodydecks.com/forums/reels-discussion/63610-bearings-bearings-bearings.html

I've also included pictures of his pliers below....

Tip: I've used a pair of similar pliers in a pinch. However, I put a few layers of tape over the sharp edges of the teeth to reduce the likelihood for scratching, gouging, etc. on the spool shaft. A gouge on some plated spool shafts could cause plating to start flaking off or make removing the bearing difficult.

Chuck
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ChuckE
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Re: Working on Reels - Tips!

Postby ChuckE » Sun Sep 23, 2007 5:25 am

I've included info on frame screws from another post in this sticky, as suggested by another forum member. A small bit of prevention can eliminate a very frustrating experience later. Here is the link to original post:
http://www.tackletour.net/T3Forum/viewtopic.php?t=22096

There is always the potential for problems, when stainless steel fasteners are used with soft metals like aluminum, magnesium, etc. Galling, fretting and galvanic corrosion can frequently occur on our reel frames, resulting in maintenance problems later. Stuck screws, stripped threads, broken screws, etc. are typical problems that can be prevented:

- Galling is actually caused by localized cold welding of the metals when they are initially forced together. It can be prevented by using a light lubricant (oil or sealant), on the threads before fastening.

- Fretting is a corrosion that occurs between the two metals, and is actually caused by a combination of corrosion and the abrasive effects of corrosion products at the points of contact. It frequently occurs if a screw works loose in the frame of the reel, and can be prevented by eliminating vibration or preventing oxygen from getting to the points of contact. A good thread sealant (like Blue Loctite), does both.

- Galvanic corrosion occurs when two dissimilar metals are in contact with each other, in an environment that facilitates transfer of free metal ions (seawater, brackish water, humid environment, etc.). The transfer of free metal ions can result in loss of threads at a fastened joint. Keeping the inside of the reel free of moisture, and use of corrosion protectant sprays will help mitigate galvanic corrosion.

Over the past year I've noticed that some of the more problematic replacement frame screws from Daiwa (primarily for recent model reels), already have a small amount of thread sealant on them. They are obviously doing this to mitigate the potential for galling and fretting. All you need to do is screw them in with the correct sized screwdriver.

Chuck
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Re: Working on Reels - Tips!

Postby Oolie » Sun Sep 23, 2007 10:27 am

would you recommend putting a bead of grease in the hole before putting the new screws in if i plan to remove the screws frequently when servicing the reel?
i service my higher end reels after every use in saltwater.

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Re: Working on Reels - Tips!

Postby ChuckE » Sun Sep 23, 2007 12:28 pm

Oolie,
If you are service the reel that often, I don't see where a small dab of grease would hurt. I've done that to a couple reels that I use in brackish water, and I only rinse them after each use, shake the water out, and let them dry. I always make sure the screws are snug, yet not overtightened, at assembly and at mini-lubes. I haven't seen a problem yet, and I use greased bearings, gears, etc. just because of the extra protection it offers.

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Re: Working on Reels - Tips!

Postby Oolie » Sun Sep 23, 2007 12:44 pm

thanks chuck, i wish that they would use only screws that have a flathead top if there's going to be loctite on the threads.

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Re: Working on Reels - Tips!

Postby holstonangler » Sun Apr 03, 2011 4:47 am

I'm a newbie at cleaning my own reels, but i found that a Q-tip stripped of most its cotton on one end makes for a great tool to pull out and clean spool bearings on Shimano reels (200e serries and 50 chronarch)

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Re: Working on Reels - Tips!

Postby Pen3 » Thu Apr 07, 2011 4:19 pm

Whats a good reliable tool for Millionaire reels handle plate cover and level wind guide screw. I think it has to be 3mm wide, 0.80mm thick with at least 45mm shank.

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Re: Working on Reels - Tips!

Postby Basswrangler » Thu Dec 29, 2011 8:28 pm

ChuckE wrote:I remove E-clips by putting one edge of a 3/16" flat (and thin) screwdriver in an opening of the clip, and work the rest of the tip like a lever across the shaft, pin etc. it is attached to. If you go slow and work at the correct angle (almost straight down on it), it will come right off without much difficulty or slipping, especially if the screwdriver tip is thin. One of the things that will help is to restrain a shaft that will turn, by putting a finger on the other end (like on the gear for a level wind worm). I admit that it does take some practice, and I had my fair share of 'oooops' when I first started.

Most of the time the clip remains right near the shaft after it is removed, because I coated it with a very-very light film of grease, before I put it on. However, if it doesn't have the grease on it, it can fly off and become 'lost in space'.

I don't encounter C Clips that often, and when I do it usually isn't pretty. So like GunDoc, I'm interested in any tips on them

Chuck


I know I am posting on an old thread, but I thought I would mention that specialty tools are made for both e and c clips. Both can be removed and installed without and specialty tools as suggested by ChuckE, but if your doing high volumes maybe the tools are worth considering. If you encounter a lot of c clips you my as well buy a pliers because they're dirt cheap.

Here's some links

http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywor ... 78ch549g_e

Kind of a long video the tool is shown at 5 min

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IrOjHuOiC4k

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Re: Working on Reels - Tips!

Postby 5poundhooker » Sat Feb 25, 2012 1:13 pm

Even though this is an old thread I wanted to share what I had previously mentioned about eva handle knobs (grips), like the Revo Premier & MGX, Pfleuger Patriarch XT, Bass Pro Carbonlite and new Johnny Morris Carbonlite. You can use a penny with a doubled plastic bag to avoid scratches to remove the outer cap end of these eva style knobs. I have yet to find the proper screw driver that fits this radius slotted screw. It may not be fancy, but it truly works great.
Also for Quantum Smoke and EXO casting and spinning versions you can use a nickel in the very same way. I can guarantee they are a couple of the cheapest tools that everyone has at there disposal. I was having quite a time before I figured this out. It will save you time and lots of money, because no reel company will sell single reel handle parts, you have to buy the whole handle if you scratch it up and can't live with it.


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