TackleTour

Yes, it is possible. I have already done so with some Spools. I figure alot of you will be interested.

I have put together a TUTORIAL for this mod below.

Any comments directed towards this mod perhaps should be posted here. Good luck and have fun!!

PICTURES

DISCLAIMER: This mod is in no way set to replace OEM SV Spools from Daiwa. Proceed with caution and please don’t hurt yourself. AND NO, we will not be drilling any holes into the spool as I know alot of you may be thinking. Lastly, I did not measure anything. I did this mod just by eyeballing everything and my measurements may not be precise.

Hello to everyone. Just a quick tidbit as to why I did this mod. I ordered the Ray’s SV Repair Kit to actually see if I can turn a lot of my old reel’s spools into SV – TDZs, Gen1 Steez, Original TD Zillions and more. And to be honest, that was a no go after tinkering for a bit when I got the Ray’s parts in. I was disappointed and figured I wasted $100 for nothing. With a lot of time especially the with all the lakes still frozen here in Minnesota in the US and my Vikings not going to the Superbowl, I decided to look at other spools more discretely. To my surprise, there are other spools that will work! So here we go.

I will provide a quick list of reels and spools that this mod will not work with. Reason is, Diawa’s older reel’s inductor shaft is actually 1mm(?) thicker than that of the current lineup of spools from Daiwa. I don’t know exactly when Diawa made the transition to this 1mm thinner inductor shaft. The one spool that I found has the thinner inductor shaft and earliest amongst my collection is the RCS 1016 Spool original found the T3 1016 reel. So just from my guess is that perhaps Daiwa changed to this thinner inductor shaft as of 2012 or later. So here are just a quick list of what reels and their corresponding OEM spools will not work.

CONFIRMED SPOOLS WILL NOT WORK WITH THIS MOD:
TDZ all variants
First Gen STEEZ 100/103
First Gen TD Zillions
Liberto Pixys
PX68

Before we start here are some tools that I had laying around. Most of you who tweak and tinker with your reels should have all these items already.

Fine Grit Sandpaper
Tweazers
Smaller needle nose pliers – used to hold and work with the Ray’s parts
Razor blade of some type
Small Flat head screw driver
Drill – not used to drill holes rather to cut down or similar process of sanding
3/8th Drill Bit – Drill bit is used to drill holes in wood. You will see why I used this.
Wire Cutter



START!!!
I will not delve into removing the OEM Inductor Cup assembly. If you should need help with this, let me know or others can chime in as well.

1) Once all OEM inductor Cup assembly parts have been removed there is still the two pins (some spools may have one long pin versus to micro pins) towards the bottom of the inductor shaft. Remove these pins.


2) Remove the Nylon/Fabric type washer at the base of the inductor shaft. TAKE NOTE – notice that indent or protruding at the base that the Nylon/Fabric washer was concealing? On normal OEM SV Spools this particular indent is not there and is flush with the bottom wall of the spool.


MOD #1!!!
3) Take one of white collar thing (for now we will call it “Bottom Foot Collar”) included and cut the protruding foot things off. As stated in step #2, remember that protruding indent? My guess is its about 2mm-3mm thick. Again on an OME Daiwa SV Spool this indent does not exist. So we have to adjust for this extra thickness since we cannot slide the Bottom Foot Collar down so it is flush against the Spool wall. Now we Sand the Bottom Foot Collar down about 2mm-3mm due to reasons stated above. Once 2mm-3mm has been sanded down on the Bottom Foot Collar, I went over the modified Bottom Foot Collar and scraped off any excess and or cleaned the bottom part of the Bottom Foot Collar so it can sit flush against that protruding indent in step #3. Also make sure you clean the shaft hole as well as during sanding some debris might have gotten inside this part and may hinder or affect the Bottom Foot Collar once inserted.


4) SUPER GLUE TIME!!! Grab your super glue. Tilt the spool to an angle and add one to two drop of Super Glue TO THE TOP OF THE INDENT MENTIONED IN STEP #2 – AT MOST 2 drops is plenty depending on the type of Super Glue adhesive you are using. Trust me, I made the mistake of not having correct lighting and dabbed over 5 drops. Let’s just say it was not a pretty sight. LOL. As soon as you add the drops, slide down the modified Bottom Foot Collar and twist it ASAP to ensure you are spreading the Super Glue around and making complete surface contact on the indent mentioned in step #2. You now will have to let it dry. As this drys, let’s move onto the next mod.



MOD #2!!!
5) NOTE: Take the Ray’s SV Inductor that is included. Notice with a top view, that white plastic part extending from the middle of the cup? For now we will call this the Inductor Spring Collar. This part to my understanding is to hold the inductor spring. However, here is the problem. With a stock OME inductor, the C-Clip slot sits higher on the inductor shaft. Non-SV sits lower. When the inductor cup moves up, the Inductor Spring Collar will infact hit the Spring washer that sits below the C-Clip. This will cause the Inductor Cup to move up 1-2 mm at most and will not move up enough to make that 1/4-3/8 inch turn.

MOD – We will use a drill and the 3/8 wood drill bit and cut away at the Inductor Spring Collar. We want to shave off at least 2mm. I have two inductor spools where one I shaved this Inductor Collar completely down flush. The other inductor spool I left at least 1mm of the Collar intact. And depending, both have no issues. Its at measurement of how much you want the Inductor Cup to pull out for more braking power is my guess. Pictured are two Ray’s Inductor Cups. Non-modified next to a modified one.




FINAL MOD!!
6) NOTE: Even with the Inductor Spring Collar modified lower, there is still one last thing to do to enable the SV Inductor Cup to move up far enough. Yes, it’s the stock inductor spring. This spring when compressed will still be between 3mm-4mm thick! And with the spring being this thick, it needs to be cut down so it will play nicely hand-in-hand with the cut down Inductor Spring Collar. Basically both have to be trimmed.

MOD – Taking the spring, I measured about 1/4 to 1/3 from one end of the spring and snipped it with a wire cutter. This allows the Inductor Cup to clear. Also to note, the OEM SV Spool inductor Spring tension is actually softer. By cutting the Spring down, this allows the spring to do two things – 1# less thickness to clear the Inductor Cup and #2 reduce the tension power.





LASTLY: Now put everything back together. Test the inductor Cup by twisting on it. It should twist at least 1/4inch to 3/8inch at the same time move up. If you have an actual SV Spool you can look and compare. It should be pretty close.

DONE!
Finally, put the newly modified Spool in your reel and test. You should see and feel the SV Air Brakes kicking in. BAM!

Oh, by the way, the hardest part about this MOD is putting that darn C-Clip on!! I have spent more time on this C-Clip and looking for it. I would advise to use a large see through or very clear plastic bag and assemble the spool inside this bag.

That's a cool mod, thanks for sharing it. The kit I am looking at has two white ramps and inductor, is there an extra ramp? Does there appear to be enough material to enlarge the holes to fit the older spools? Any chance you could snap a pic of an old style inductor beside the Ray's?

ALBASS wrote:That's a cool mod, thanks for sharing it. The kit I am looking at has two white ramps and inductor, is there an extra ramp? Does there appear to be enough material to enlarge the holes to fit the older spools? Any chance you could snap a pic of an old style inductor beside the Ray's?

Included in the Ray's SV Repair kit is: 1 - Inductor, 2 - Bottom Foot Collar Ramp. That is what I have as well. However, I ordered 12 of these repair kits.

As far as enlarging the hole for the parts to retro fit the older spools with the thicker inductor shaft, it can be done. And yes, I tried that already. Lets just say, without a steady hand and the correct size drill bit, you will not be able to get this done correctly. If you push on the upper ramp that is attached to the Ray's Inductor Cup, the white part will separate from the Cup. It is only held in by glue. My attempt to drill the Ray's SV Inductor Cup hole bigger didn't go so well. The hole became elliptical and drilling left more plastic on other areas. But to say the least, it is possible. With months to go yet, I may try another attempt or two at this and will comment back.

I am not sure about your last question. Are you referring to the old Inductor cup vs Ray's inductor cup? Old inductor shaft vs new inductor shaft on newer Daiwa reels? OEM Daiwa SV inductor vs Ray's inductor?

Yep I was trying to get an idea of shaft size difference, if its 1 mm then .5 mm per side does not seem undo able, esp with drill press. I do wonder also why the extra ramp is included, they are identical?

I was able to finally test the Tatula CT stock spool with the SV Mod and lets just say it isn't exactly as great the actual Tatula CT SV Spool. My speculations were correct. Reason is, the Tatula CT stock spool is a heavier spool versus its bigger brother the Tatula CT SV. Thus the Air Brakes was not as pronounced. However, IMO, the stock Tatula CT Spool modified to SV, now has more range and power in braking. Let's just say its between the stock spool performance and OEM Daiwa SV spool performance. I had more control and thumbed less with the modified spool. But if you are looking for actual Tatula CT SV spool performance, this would be a no.

On the other hand, as I stated in one of my other posts, the T3 1016 Spool modified to SV, performed exaclty or better than a Stock SV Spool from Daiwa. Again, reason is, the T3 RCS1016 is very light and not heavy like the Tatula CT spool. So in a nutshell, with heavier spools, SV Air braking will not be as obvious but braking performance should trump stock after being modified. But take this with a grain of salt. I haven't had the time to convert any other heavier spools yet such as the ones on the bigger Tatulas.

Dredging up an old thread here. I made this modification to 2 J-Dream spools and MAN what a difference! I'm definitely going to hunt down the correct size drill bit (what's the exact shaft size...?) and try it on a couple TD-Z and Steez spools. Thanks for this!

This is amazing. Glad it got dug up. Someone sticky this please.

adam lancia wrote:Dredging up an old thread here. I made this modification to 2 J-Dream spools and MAN what a difference! I'm definitely going to hunt down the correct size drill bit (what's the exact shaft size...?) and try it on a couple TD-Z and Steez spools. Thanks for this!

There used to be bits called reaming bits that stepped up from a solid shaft of the original diameter to a larger section, with cutting faces in it, so you could use the old shaft hole to perfectly center the new, larger hole. Maybe a machine shop supply would have them.

mark poulson wrote:

adam lancia wrote:Dredging up an old thread here. I made this modification to 2 J-Dream spools and MAN what a difference! I'm definitely going to hunt down the correct size drill bit (what's the exact shaft size...?) and try it on a couple TD-Z and Steez spools. Thanks for this!

There used to be bits called reaming bits that stepped up from a solid shaft of the original diameter to a larger section, with cutting faces in it, so you could use the old shaft hole to perfectly center the new, larger hole. Maybe a machine shop supply would have them.

I'll look into that, thanks for the idea!

mark poulson wrote:

adam lancia wrote:Dredging up an old thread here. I made this modification to 2 J-Dream spools and MAN what a difference! I'm definitely going to hunt down the correct size drill bit (what's the exact shaft size...?) and try it on a couple TD-Z and Steez spools. Thanks for this!

There used to be bits called reaming bits that stepped up from a solid shaft of the original diameter to a larger section, with cutting faces in it, so you could use the old shaft hole to perfectly center the new, larger hole. Maybe a machine shop supply would have them.

They are called step drill bits. Home Depot usually has them.

Going to give this a go as I have a few spare 1016 T3 and 1016G1 Steez A spools. have ordered a couple of the rays kits from ebay. I think there was 1 kit left after my purchase.

This would be excellent if it could be done to a SLP 1010 spool

BARRAMANIAC wrote:This would be excellent if it could be done to a SLP 1010 spool

It can be, I just need to get the right sized reamer/drill bit to enlarge the i.d. of the new parts.