Broken sv spool
- Buck2thPerch
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Re: Broken sv spool
Just a note or two.
Spools that CANNOT be converted - from what I confirmed:
Original Steez 103/100
T3 1016
TDZ
Presso
Original TD Zillions and Type-R
Original Alphas and variants (Sol, Ito A.I., Type-F, Finesse, etc)
And maybe more
From my experimentation, all the newer reels have a smaller inductor shaft (1mm smaller?) - my guess Daiwa 2012(maybe even later) on up. This better smaller inductor shaft is what the SV inductor is designed to use. So all the older reels have the bigger inductor shaft. The quickest way to find out if the Ray's SV repair kit will work on a reel is to remove the old inductor assembly and see if the Ray's inductor will fit the shaft of said spool in question. And yes i already confirmed for the reels above.
In my boredom over the winter and all my local lakes frozen, i thought it would be fun to see if i can convert a few Steez and TDZ spools i had laying around and inject new life into those reels. I was disappointed at first since I ordered 12 of these Ray's SV repair kits and it's not working for my intended spools. What a waste of $100 I thought. Then one thing lead to another and now, best damn $100 i have spent. Well, maybe not "the" best $100 but we will leave it there.
Spools that CANNOT be converted - from what I confirmed:
Original Steez 103/100
T3 1016
TDZ
Presso
Original TD Zillions and Type-R
Original Alphas and variants (Sol, Ito A.I., Type-F, Finesse, etc)
And maybe more
From my experimentation, all the newer reels have a smaller inductor shaft (1mm smaller?) - my guess Daiwa 2012(maybe even later) on up. This better smaller inductor shaft is what the SV inductor is designed to use. So all the older reels have the bigger inductor shaft. The quickest way to find out if the Ray's SV repair kit will work on a reel is to remove the old inductor assembly and see if the Ray's inductor will fit the shaft of said spool in question. And yes i already confirmed for the reels above.
In my boredom over the winter and all my local lakes frozen, i thought it would be fun to see if i can convert a few Steez and TDZ spools i had laying around and inject new life into those reels. I was disappointed at first since I ordered 12 of these Ray's SV repair kits and it's not working for my intended spools. What a waste of $100 I thought. Then one thing lead to another and now, best damn $100 i have spent. Well, maybe not "the" best $100 but we will leave it there.
Last edited by Buck2thPerch on Wed Feb 07, 2018 8:51 am, edited 1 time in total.
Marine General Staff - Duluth MN
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Re: Broken sv spool
Does the Ray's kit make it better than stock? Or should I just by the little piece from tt?
- Buck2thPerch
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Re: Broken sv spool
I cannot answer that question. But here is some differences that I noticed about the Ray's SV inductor.Dustys60 wrote:Does the Ray's kit make it better than stock? Or should I just by the little piece from tt?
1) Ray's inductor cup is about 1-2 mm longer than stock Daiwa
2) Ray's Inductor cup is curved inwards at the end of the Cup like that of the older Mag-V inductor cups.
Casting outside in my backyard like I stated, the stock T3 1016 RCS Spool with the Ray's SV inductor has alot more SV Air braking power than I can remember from my Steez TW1016SVs, SV103s, and Older Steez 103SHA's with SV103 Spools. I can definitely feel it. OR....it could just be me since its been 3-4 months since I casted any of my reels. However, I can state that the performance on the stock T3 RCS1016 Spool is on par with the SV103 spool at the least.
Now if you are just replacing that broken footing white part, then it will probably be more economical to grab the part from TT. However, if you want to see if they Ray's Kit performs better? It should also be of no issue. Reason is, Ray's Kit should be a direct swap with no mod needed for any stock Daiwa SV Spools.
I have my Tatula CT Spool with the Ray's inductor and you can see and feel the air brake but, this non-sv stock CT spool is much heavier than its bigger Tatual CT SV spool if I am right. And with it being heavier, I have no idea how it will perform. I can say for sure and speculate that the performance of a heavier stock spool converted to SV will perform differently from regular SV Spools and even differently from stock non-sv.
Last edited by Buck2thPerch on Wed Feb 07, 2018 8:47 am, edited 1 time in total.
Marine General Staff - Duluth MN
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- Buck2thPerch
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Re: Broken sv spool
PICTURES
Last edited by Buck2thPerch on Fri Feb 09, 2018 2:52 pm, edited 6 times in total.
Marine General Staff - Duluth MN
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- Buck2thPerch
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Re: Broken sv spool
In the pictures above, I added a stock Tatula CT spool to show the original gold inductor. All the original inductor parts are in the marked corresponding Ray's original zip pack bag thingy.
Now the only thing is to get a feel for these converted spool in real time fishing casting scenarios. Alas, it will be 2-4 months before that happens...especially in Minnesota.
Now the only thing is to get a feel for these converted spool in real time fishing casting scenarios. Alas, it will be 2-4 months before that happens...especially in Minnesota.
Marine General Staff - Duluth MN
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Re: Broken sv spool
So you do have to drill 2 holes for the tabs on the inductor base, correct?
- Buck2thPerch
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Re: Broken sv spool
No. I sanded down one of the Ray's bottom footed white part. Then super glued it to the base of the spool. There is a reason why you have to sand it down. Even if there is already teo holes for the bottom footed part to fit, you will quickly see why in these non-sv spools.adam lancia wrote:So you do have to drill 2 holes for the tabs on the inductor base, correct?
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Re: Broken sv spool
I must have missed the part about sanding the nubs off.Buck2thPerch wrote:No. I sanded down one of the Ray's bottom footed white part. Then super glued it to the base of the spool. There is a reason why you have to sand it down. Even if there is already teo holes for the bottom footed part to fit, you will quickly see why in these non-sv spools.adam lancia wrote:So you do have to drill 2 holes for the tabs on the inductor base, correct?
Your pictures disappeared by the way.
- Buck2thPerch
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Re: Broken sv spool
No you didn't. I didn't go into it much.adam lancia wrote:I must have missed the part about sanding the nubs off.Buck2thPerch wrote:No. I sanded down one of the Ray's bottom footed white part. Then super glued it to the base of the spool. There is a reason why you have to sand it down. Even if there is already teo holes for the bottom footed part to fit, you will quickly see why in these non-sv spools.adam lancia wrote:So you do have to drill 2 holes for the tabs on the inductor base, correct?
Your pictures disappeared by the way.
I will try to put a Tutorial together. The process seems complicated but it really isn't. After your first conversion, you should be able to do the next one in 30mins or less depending on how much of a perfectionist you are. Me on the other hand, I basically eyed everything and so far after 3 conversions, all of the spools works as good as stock or better.
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Re: Broken sv spool
Buck2thPerch wrote:No you didn't. I didn't go into it much.adam lancia wrote:I must have missed the part about sanding the nubs off.Buck2thPerch wrote:No. I sanded down one of the Ray's bottom footed white part. Then super glued it to the base of the spool. There is a reason why you have to sand it down. Even if there is already teo holes for the bottom footed part to fit, you will quickly see why in these non-sv spools.adam lancia wrote:So you do have to drill 2 holes for the tabs on the inductor base, correct?
Your pictures disappeared by the way.
I will try to put a Tutorial together. The process seems complicated but it really isn't. After your first conversion, you should be able to do the next one in 30mins or less depending on how much of a perfectionist you are. Me on the other hand, I basically eyed everything and so far after 3 conversions, all of the spools works as good as stock or better.
I'd love to see a tutorial, but I'm guessing the paraphrased version goes something like, "remove old inductor assembly, file 2 nubs on new brake block flat, glue lower block to spool, reassemble." I haven't taken any of my project spools apart to verify my assumption though so I could be off by a mile lol
I ordered 4 kits. But like your Minnesota winter, the one out here in Nova Scotia isn't any shorter...
- Buck2thPerch
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Re: Broken sv spool
You are basically on the correct path as how the conversion will work. There is a little more that goes into it. But that is because its to correct what the Non-SV Spool has vs an actual SV Spool.adam lancia wrote:Buck2thPerch wrote:No you didn't. I didn't go into it much.adam lancia wrote:I must have missed the part about sanding the nubs off.Buck2thPerch wrote:No. I sanded down one of the Ray's bottom footed white part. Then super glued it to the base of the spool. There is a reason why you have to sand it down. Even if there is already teo holes for the bottom footed part to fit, you will quickly see why in these non-sv spools.adam lancia wrote:So you do have to drill 2 holes for the tabs on the inductor base, correct?
Your pictures disappeared by the way.
I will try to put a Tutorial together. The process seems complicated but it really isn't. After your first conversion, you should be able to do the next one in 30mins or less depending on how much of a perfectionist you are. Me on the other hand, I basically eyed everything and so far after 3 conversions, all of the spools works as good as stock or better.
I'd love to see a tutorial, but I'm guessing the paraphrased version goes something like, "remove old inductor assembly, file 2 nubs on new brake block flat, glue lower block to spool, reassemble." I haven't taken any of my project spools apart to verify my assumption though so I could be off by a mile lol
I ordered 4 kits. But like your Minnesota winter, the one out here in Nova Scotia isn't any shorter...
I did finish the Tutorial. Went to click the "Submit" button......says I have to "log in". WTF!!! I spent almost 2 hours typing and error correcting and adding my pictures on the Tutorial!!!! AND I JUST LOST everything!
So gave up and will retype it again when I have free time.
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Re: Broken sv spool
That's frigging brutal! I look forward to seeing it once you can stand to look at your computer again. Thanks!Buck2thPerch wrote: I did finish the Tutorial. Went to click the "Submit" button......says I have to "log in". WTF!!! I spent almost 2 hours typing and error correcting and adding my pictures on the Tutorial!!!! AND I JUST LOST everything!
So gave up and will retype it again when I have free time.
- Buck2thPerch
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Re: Broken sv spool
Tutorial is done and up. This time I typed everything up in MS Word and copied pasted onto Tackle Tour.
viewtopic.php?f=30&t=77657&p=621605#p621605
viewtopic.php?f=30&t=77657&p=621605#p621605
Marine General Staff - Duluth MN
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