Braided Line

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Abuman1
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Braided Line

Post by Abuman1 » Sun Nov 06, 2011 12:57 pm

I have heard of putting 30# monofilament backing on 50# braid. Would the maximum breaking point be the 30 pounds since its the weakest link, not including the decreased strength due to the knot. I would like to know if my theory is true or not, if not, may you explain why.

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KillaBass
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Re: Braided Line

Post by KillaBass » Sun Nov 06, 2011 4:54 pm

no need for line as backing..just use some hockey tape
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mhood
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Re: Braided Line

Post by mhood » Sun Nov 06, 2011 5:16 pm

...or some Teflon plumber's tape.
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wnyBob
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Re: Braided Line

Post by wnyBob » Mon Nov 07, 2011 6:59 am

Abuman1 wrote:I have heard of putting 30# monofilament backing on 50# braid. Would the maximum breaking point be the 30 pounds since its the weakest link, not including the decreased strength due to the knot. I would like to know if my theory is true or not, if not, may you explain why.
There’s a couple of different reasons for backing braid with mono. So it doesn’t slip on the spool is one, with the correct knot, Arbor knot, then the spooling mono grips the spool better. Some people use tape to start the mono which solves it also. Plus now if you read some of the newer reel descriptions they are advertising the spool as “braid ready”, the surface of the spool is machined to allow a braid to grab.

The other reason, which I subscribe to, is use cheap mono backing so you actually use less expensive braid. It’s just a cost saving function, $5.00 for mono, $30.00 or more for the same amount in braid. Most quality braid is expensive. So why put 200 yds of expensive braid on a reel, if you can only ever toss out a 100 yds or less. Depending on the size capacity of the spool then the distance of your typical cast, plus allowing for a fish run, do the math and you can back 50% mono, 33%, 25%. and you join two different type or size lines with a uni-knot.

As far as the weakest link. Your theory may be correct if you let the line out to the mono backing, BUT . . . . . .you don’t do that. In actual practice and theory you don’t hit that point of the less strength mono or the knot only left on your spool. You don’t want to do that. If you do then you’ve spooled on a tad too much mono and not enough braid. You want to be able to see some braid still wrapped on the spool even if just a couple of turns after your maximum line out from the cast and playing a fish.

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USA-RET
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Re: Braided Line

Post by USA-RET » Mon Nov 07, 2011 7:43 am

For SW fishing I use a tape backing and all braid. I want as much line on my reel as possible since SW fish can really pull and strip line. Mhood's recommendation for using "Plumbers Tape" is genius.

For FW I back all my reels with a lot of mono. Bass are not going to make 50 yard runs..so I usually load only 75 yards of 20 lb braid on my reels. I get two refills from one 150 yard spool (saving me money) and never see my backing during a normal fishing day.

If you are throwing for distance in FW with your reels them maybe 100 yards of braid would be more suitable.

Just my perspective.
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Abuman1
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Re: Braided Line

Post by Abuman1 » Mon Nov 07, 2011 12:49 pm

Thanks for the explanation, I understand now. =D>
Last edited by Abuman1 on Wed Nov 09, 2011 1:08 pm, edited 1 time in total.

wnyBob
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Re: Braided Line

Post by wnyBob » Mon Nov 07, 2011 3:13 pm

Abuman1 wrote:I understand what you're saying, that you have the breaking strength of the braid unless you hit the backing. But since the backing is the only thing holding the braid to the spool, then the lower pound rated backing will break first. Can I get a definative answer on whether or not this is right.
You can't get a definative answer of what will break first because there are too many variables. maybe a flaw or fray in the braid. If it got dragged through an oyster bed it's toast. The chain is only as strong as the weakest link. but I think you really want to talk yourself into the lower pound rateing will break first. If you spool the reel right it's almost a non issue. If in fact the mono is substancially weaker than the braid, it is still only an issue if you spool all the braid off and hanging on to a lunker by the mono tied to the braid. If there are still wraps of braid on the spool you're working with the braid. If you don't have confidence in backing with mono, don't do it. It's all about individual confidence and choice anyway. Like the other posters said he doesn't back with mono for the salt. But even 30# mono is pretty stout mono and will battle a H of a fish. You're terminal knots could be weaker than the whole set up, in which case that is your weakest link. Unless you are just trying to prove a point, I don't really see a problem. Put 50# mono on.

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pdspeh69
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Re: Braided Line

Post by pdspeh69 » Fri Jan 20, 2012 1:33 pm

I use only a few feet (just enough to cover the spool) of mono as a backing for slippage -- but also So I know when I am near the the spool -FYI - I am using a Shimano Saros 3000F with 20 lb Power pro for inshore saltwater. Striped Bass up to 36" is the largest I will tangle with.. and when the line is getting close I like to know.. that that it happens often..but it's a good indicator to change your plans for the fish --Quickly..

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gordoleo
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Re: Braided Line

Post by gordoleo » Wed Jan 25, 2012 9:24 am

I normally only use a little bit of mono to grab the spool, and I use a lower test rated mono. I do this, because I normally use more powerful braid than my equipment is rated for, so the mono backing will break before my rod and reel breaks when I hook something unexpected.

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