Building a TRUE custom rod.
Building a TRUE custom rod.
(mods please do not move this thread since is for show more than building technics. Thanks)
In the beginning was nothing, just a dream and raw material...then an idea came, along with planning and execution. First the tools and materials. More to come as I continue with the work. First pictures, first...
In the beginning was nothing, just a dream and raw material...then an idea came, along with planning and execution. First the tools and materials. More to come as I continue with the work. First pictures, first...
- Attachments
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- 6061 aluminum stock bar, CF tube, graphite arbor.
- DSC01672.JPG (53.46 KiB) Viewed 7766 times
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- Rod wrapper/dryer
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- High precission metal lathe 14X40
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Re: Building a TRUE custom rod.
Like the genesis - reference, but I hope you post the rest in less than 7 days bro!
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Re: Building a TRUE custom rod.
Hey Kaoma,
Are you thinking of building a slant bridge same as the megabass rod?
Are you thinking of building a slant bridge same as the megabass rod?
Re: Building a TRUE custom rod.
No slant bridge, that piece is cast not machined. The shape of it prevents it from turning as well as milling since both operations are needed. Also I do not like the look of the slant bridge a bit, looks like a broken part and fixed with duct tape and bailing wire.
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Re: Building a TRUE custom rod.
I would have to agree. But beauty is in the eye of the beholder.Kaoma wrote:No slant bridge, that piece is cast not machined. The shape of it prevents it from turning as well as milling since both operations are needed. Also I do not like the look of the slant bridge a bit, looks like a broken part and fixed with duct tape and bailing wire.
Try not to let your mind wander. It is much too small to be outside unsupervised.
Re: Building a TRUE custom rod.
Guys, I am working 7 days a week from 10 to 16 hours. This weekend will do more work and post pictures.Gblaze wrote:Like the genesis - reference, but I hope you post the rest in less than 7 days bro!
Re: Building a TRUE custom rod.
I was just joking buddy- I am happy you are sharing your art with us at all!
Re: Building a TRUE custom rod.
Sqweezed betwwen work and no sleep, I did a bit more work on the rod this week. I can only do 1-2 parts at the time since precission is very esential and don't want to waste time and material.
I dislike cork and EVA for rod handles, if needed I will use Hypolan foam since is a lot more durable than both cork and EVA but is a bit heavy. Decided to use CF 2X2 wave tube and graphite arbor as support since is very light and durable. Now the pictures...
I dislike cork and EVA for rod handles, if needed I will use Hypolan foam since is a lot more durable than both cork and EVA but is a bit heavy. Decided to use CF 2X2 wave tube and graphite arbor as support since is very light and durable. Now the pictures...
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- Graphite tube taped to the end of the rod to check for looks and weight. Ahhh...the work that follows...
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- Running a test cut of the graphite arbor to check the best speed and depth of cut.
- DSC01614.JPG (64.64 KiB) Viewed 7493 times
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- The graphite arbor comes with an O.D. of 1.010" and I have to turn it down to .970" to fit inside the CF tube. Slow speed and a lot of graphite dust that you don't want to inhale. One mistake and work is ruined.
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- After turning the arbor to the ID of the CF tube, next is drilling to set size of 1/2" ID
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- After drilling the arbor to 1/2" ID, next is the reaming to rod size.
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Re: Building a TRUE custom rod.
...and more...
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- DONE!!! Arbors set over the blank, spacing done, next is to slide over the CF tube.
- DSC01621.JPG (63.69 KiB) Viewed 7491 times
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- Finally, the CF tube is set over the arbors, the fit is perfect.
- done 4.JPG (63.33 KiB) Viewed 7491 times
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- Now that the arbors have been done and set, next is to tackle the aluminum parts.
- done 3.JPG (64.13 KiB) Viewed 7491 times
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- Boring (inside cut) to fit over the rod. Tight tolerances are very important since the blank is tapered.
- done 2.JPG (61.5 KiB) Viewed 7491 times
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- Turning to size to fit out and inside the CF tube for support.
- done 1.JPG (68.72 KiB) Viewed 7491 times
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Re: Building a TRUE custom rod.
I'm enjoying this
Re: Building a TRUE custom rod.
This is a awesome post-
Re: Building a TRUE custom rod.
I have three blanks, all St. Croix:
- 2C80MXF 8' 1 8-20 3/8-3 X-FAST (the one in the picture working on it, for a spinning reel for trout, panfish, etc.)
- 2C80HF 8' 1 12-25 1-4 FAST (will be next build based on the same principle for a baitcaster for catfish, bass, etc.)
- 2C80XHF 8' 1 15-40 2-8 FAST (changed my mind about using it since is very close to the one above, waiting for adoption to a good home.)
Today will start working on the parts for the second rod based on the same design as the first one. No pictures for this one since is a carbon copy of the first. When all the aluminum parts will be done (rod 1 and 2) the next step is anodizing (I have to pay for this, I do not anodize and is pretty $$$$). Will post pictures of the finished anodized aluminum parts. Next step is setting the parts for a dry fit, gluing them one rod at the time and waiting for the glue to cure for 48hrs. Finally, will have to calculate the guide spacing (8+tip) for both rods, set and wrap the guides, wait for the epoxy glue to set and lock the guides in place, and last apply the glass epoxy for smooth finish. As for guides I will use Fuji KLSG for spinning and KTSG for baitcaster rods.
At the very end, take the rod(s) to the lake, set-up the reel, line and hook and perform the "fish please bite my bait" dance ritual.
Soon more pictures will be posted within a week (I hope). If you have any questions, post here or PM me.
- 2C80MXF 8' 1 8-20 3/8-3 X-FAST (the one in the picture working on it, for a spinning reel for trout, panfish, etc.)
- 2C80HF 8' 1 12-25 1-4 FAST (will be next build based on the same principle for a baitcaster for catfish, bass, etc.)
- 2C80XHF 8' 1 15-40 2-8 FAST (changed my mind about using it since is very close to the one above, waiting for adoption to a good home.)
Today will start working on the parts for the second rod based on the same design as the first one. No pictures for this one since is a carbon copy of the first. When all the aluminum parts will be done (rod 1 and 2) the next step is anodizing (I have to pay for this, I do not anodize and is pretty $$$$). Will post pictures of the finished anodized aluminum parts. Next step is setting the parts for a dry fit, gluing them one rod at the time and waiting for the glue to cure for 48hrs. Finally, will have to calculate the guide spacing (8+tip) for both rods, set and wrap the guides, wait for the epoxy glue to set and lock the guides in place, and last apply the glass epoxy for smooth finish. As for guides I will use Fuji KLSG for spinning and KTSG for baitcaster rods.
At the very end, take the rod(s) to the lake, set-up the reel, line and hook and perform the "fish please bite my bait" dance ritual.
Soon more pictures will be posted within a week (I hope). If you have any questions, post here or PM me.
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Re: Building a TRUE custom rod.
Agreed. This post is definitely keeping my attention.....Gblaze wrote:This is a awesome post-
Kaoma, are you doing a traditional wrap or spiral
JDM quality is unsurpassed. Period.
Re: Building a TRUE custom rod.
For my own use I do only traditional wrap, spin on the bottom, baitcaster on top, but when I build for somebody else, whatever he wants.
For the spinner, the guides are spaced as follows from the very tip of the top (in inches) down:
3 - 6 - 10 - 15.5 - 23 - 33 - 46 - 62.5.
For the spinner, the guides are spaced as follows from the very tip of the top (in inches) down:
3 - 6 - 10 - 15.5 - 23 - 33 - 46 - 62.5.
Re: Building a TRUE custom rod.
Every night after work, from 11:00pm to around 12:30pm I have worked on the aluminum parts, one at the time. Now all are done and tomorrow will take them to be anodized and by Saturday I should have them back for fitting and instalation. In the meantime I have also finished the graphite arbors for the baitcaster rod, twin brother of the spinner one. The pictures are of the main parts and in mid proccess...to document each operation would take more than 100 pictures since I do a rough cut close to size and after I take 0.001" per turn till final size is obtained. I have to take into consideration the present temp of the metal, the temp the part will reach while cut and the gap needed for the glue to be set between the part and the blank. Ideal temp for a worked metal at the end is 75F since is the mid range and will not expand/contract much from that. Consider that a human hair is 0.0015" ( a thousand and a half), and each cut I make is 0.001", takes a long time if you want to be precise.
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