TackleTour

Hey,
I am asking for opinions... I have the RC-001 & RC-002 spools. The RC-001 spool is spooled with Yo-Zuri 12 lb. Hybrid. It is a "slow" spool for me. I can turn the brakes completely off and loosen the spool tension completely to cast. I can throw it with all my might and throw a 1/2 oz. jig maybe 70 ft. No sign of a backlash. The spool seems to spin freely with no sign of binding. My RC-002 spool is a "fast" spool for me. "5" is about as low as I can go with the brakes and moderate-slow on the spooi tension. Casts light baits great, can throw a "Glass" shad-rap with no hooks(7 grams) about 75 ft. (Haven't tested the balsa #7 shad rap yet, but I "think" it will rival the pixilla, 60-65 ft). And this is with Berkley 10 lb. 100% fluoro, so I think it would cast even better with a different line. Both have ZPI SIC bearings oiled with hot sauce. Both reels in good condition. Both rods were 7', appropriate for the baits cast. My question is should the 002 be a "faster" spool? Do you think I have problem with the 001?? Thanks for the opinions

The RC-001 is a heavier spool for sure b/c it holds more line so it should be slow when fully loaded w/ line, but not to the extent of casting with zero mag settings. I also have the ZPI Blue RS shallow spool that is a ported & shallower version of the RC-002 and use it with f/c 12 lbs. lines. The lowest I can go with mag set is 4 when throwing 1/4 T-rigs, without too much of a backlash. At 5 settings is almost backlash-proof. I use it on a TD-Z Type-R+, also used in a Steez 103.

There could be two answers - the ball bearing on the spool shaft is gone - and I think that could be the culprit. When I received my blue RS spool, bought second from JP, the ZPI SIC bearing was gone - the casting distance was half of my stock TD-Z reels. I put a new bearing and now it flies .

The second idea would be a different inductor cup material on your RC-001 spool, one that would be more sensitive to the magnetic field and thus slow your spool down.

The inductor material appears to be the same in the 001 as the 002. I guess that leaves me to try a new bearing. Thanks for the help AndZ.

Take extra care when removing the shaft pin - the spool shaft is made of duralumin, which is softer and easier to damage then the shafts in the regular Daiwa spools.

Thanks for the heads up.

N/p... a Squat or Hedgehos Studio spool pin remover works a treat:

http://www.plat.co.jp/shop/catalog/prod ... mover.html

I've got the Hedgehog tool. Some don't like it but I have had good service from it.

Both work flawless for me... for smaller dia spool shafts you might wanna use a small spaces 0.5 mm thick and bent in U (approximately) so that you can fill the gap between the tool's remover and the spool shaft. There are tools made for different spool diameters... but with a small spacer, you can use a spool remover made for Steez/TD-Z just as well with pixy-sized spools.

Of course I am still learning and surfing between ideas of what to write for this paper

I found a RC-001S MJR ZPI spool is this the same or different than the ZPI RC-001?
This one has the same perforated inductor as the BE.. if that makes a difference.. because I did see one with a nonpreforated inductor but they are both the same color green

The spool im talking about is attached in photo.. I dont see alot of information on its performance

AndZ wrote: ↑

Thu Jan 26, 2012 2:04 am

Take extra care when removing the shaft pin - the spool shaft is made of duralumin, which is softer and easier to damage then the shafts in the regular Daiwa spools.

Does anyone know if this is the case for the NRC spools as well?

poisonokie wrote: ↑

Thu Sep 19, 2019 10:55 am

AndZ wrote: ↑

Thu Jan 26, 2012 2:04 am

Take extra care when removing the shaft pin - the spool shaft is made of duralumin, which is softer and easier to damage then the shafts in the regular Daiwa spools.

Does anyone know if this is the case for the NRC spools as well?

Yes sir, aluminum spool shafts on the M and PG spools too.

The gold inductor indicates that it originally came with ceramic bearings. As far as I know, there is no performance difference between that inductor and the silver one.

adam lancia wrote: ↑

Fri Sep 20, 2019 2:27 am

poisonokie wrote: ↑

Thu Sep 19, 2019 10:55 am

AndZ wrote: ↑

Thu Jan 26, 2012 2:04 am

Take extra care when removing the shaft pin - the spool shaft is made of duralumin, which is softer and easier to damage then the shafts in the regular Daiwa spools.

Does anyone know if this is the case for the NRC spools as well?

Yes sir, aluminum spool shafts on the M and PG spools too.

The gold inductor indicates that it originally came with ceramic bearings. As far as I know, there is no performance difference between that inductor and the silver one.

Well, I'll probably wind up installing a HH Air on it and putting the ZPI bearings elsewhere, so that's good to know. No wonder they're so light!

poisonokie wrote: ↑

Fri Sep 20, 2019 5:40 am

adam lancia wrote: ↑

Fri Sep 20, 2019 2:27 am

poisonokie wrote: ↑

Thu Sep 19, 2019 10:55 am

AndZ wrote: ↑

Thu Jan 26, 2012 2:04 am

Take extra care when removing the shaft pin - the spool shaft is made of duralumin, which is softer and easier to damage then the shafts in the regular Daiwa spools.

Does anyone know if this is the case for the NRC spools as well?

Yes sir, aluminum spool shafts on the M and PG spools too.

The gold inductor indicates that it originally came with ceramic bearings. As far as I know, there is no performance difference between that inductor and the silver one.

Well, I'll probably wind up installing a HH Air on it and putting the ZPI bearings elsewhere, so that's good to know. No wonder they're so light!

Try it with the stock bearing after you flush it and put done light oil on it, you might be surprised.

adam lancia wrote: ↑

Sat Sep 21, 2019 2:51 am

Try it with the stock bearing after you flush it and put done light oil on it, you might be surprised.

Alright, I might as well give it a shot. I don't have a bearing for it yet, anyway.